
Chef Klaus
Apfelschorle
Cloudy apple juice, sharp mineral water, and no sugar bowl: the German Schorle that belongs in school bags, beer gardens, picnic baskets, and the table when supper is quick.
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The North Frisian coffee that hides its rum under a white cap of cream, built for a winter table, a christening story, and a strict parson with a good nose.
Pharisäer belongs to Nordfriesland, up on the Schleswig-Holstein coast, where coffee, rum, and cream make more sense than a little glass with an umbrella in it. This is a winter drink, a feast drink, the cup you set down after a meal or on a cold evening when the wind has done its work. The north hides rum under cream; in the Rheingau they flame brandy in Rüdesheimer Kaffee. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.
The method is simple, so there is nowhere to hide. Strong hot coffee first, sugar dissolved while it can still melt cleanly, then good dark rum, then a thick cap of lightly whipped cream laid on top. Do not stir. The cream traps the rum's smell, cools the first sip, and makes you drink the coffee through it. Stir it and you've made sweet coffee with cream. Worse drink, less story.
Use real coffee and real cream. Nicht aus dem Glas, not from a bottle of coffee syrup, not from a spray can. Whip the cream only until it mounds softly, because stiff cream sits like putty and thin cream sinks. The whole drink is decided by that cap. Das braucht seine Zeit, and in this case the time is only two minutes, so don't be lazy.
Pharisäer is tied to Nordstrand in North Frisia, where the common origin story places it in the 19th century, often specifically at an 1872 christening feast attended by the strict pastor Georg Bleyer. The guests hid rum in coffee under whipped cream so the alcohol could not be smelled, and when the pastor discovered the trick he is said to have called them Pharisees, giving the drink its name. The legend is local pride as much as record, but the drink's method fits the coast exactly: coffee-house habit, seafaring rum, and cream used as a lid.
Quantity
300ml
hot
Quantity
80ml
preferably robust North Sea tavern strength
Quantity
2 to 4 teaspoons
Quantity
100ml
cold
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| strong freshly brewed coffeehot | 300ml |
| dark rumpreferably robust North Sea tavern strength | 80ml |
| sugar | 2 to 4 teaspoons |
| heavy creamcold | 100ml |
| sugar for the cream (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
Fill two tall Pharisäer cups or heatproof coffee glasses with hot water, then empty them. A warm cup keeps the coffee hot long enough for the sugar to dissolve and the rum to bloom without shocking the glass.
Whip the cold cream with the optional teaspoon of sugar only until it forms soft, heavy folds. Stop there. Thin cream sinks into the coffee, and stiff cream sits like a lid you have to chew through; soft cream floats and lets you drink through it.
Pour 150ml strong hot coffee into each warmed cup and stir 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar into each one while the coffee is still hot. Sugar dissolves cleanly now; add it later and it sits gritty under the cream, which is not clever.
Pour 40ml dark rum into each cup and give the coffee one small stir before the cream goes on. This is the last stirring you get. Once the cream is on top, the drink is finished.
Slide the whipped cream over the back of a spoon so it spreads across the surface in a thick white cap. The cream holds back the rum aroma and cools the first sip, which is the whole Pharisäer trick. Serve at once and don't stir. If you stir at a North Frisian table, someone will make you buy the next round.
1 serving (about 245g)
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