
Chef Dean
Anadama Bread
A colonial New England loaf with golden cornmeal crumb and dark molasses sweetness, crusty on the outside and tender within. The kind of bread that built fishing villages.
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The iconic folded dinner roll from Boston's Parker House Hotel, with a pillowy interior and burnished butter-brushed crust that has graced American tables since 1870.
These rolls were born in the kitchen of Boston's Parker House Hotel sometime around 1870, though the exact origin remains pleasantly murky. Legend credits an irritated baker who folded his dough in haste and created something better than intention could have managed. What matters is what they became: the quintessential American dinner roll.
The signature fold isn't merely aesthetic. It creates a natural hinge that opens to receive butter, a pocket that catches gravy, a shape that pulls apart into two perfect halves. The dough itself is enriched with milk, butter, and just enough sugar to encourage browning without sweetness. This is a bread designed for the table, not the breadbox.
I've made these rolls for Thanksgiving gatherings of eight and gatherings of forty. The recipe scales beautifully. More importantly, the dough forgives the distracted cook who has a turkey to attend to. You can mix it the day before, shape it the morning of, and bake while the bird rests. The timing aligns with the holiday as if by design.
Master this recipe and you'll never buy dinner rolls again. These are the rolls that make guests ask for your secret. The secret is that there is no secret. Just good butter, patient rising, and the confidence to brush on one more coat of melted gold before they hit the table.
Quantity
1 cup
warmed to 110°F
Quantity
2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet)
Quantity
1/4 cup
divided
Quantity
4 cups
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
8 tablespoons (1 stick)
Quantity
4 tablespoons
for brushing
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole milkwarmed to 110°F | 1 cup |
| active dry yeast | 2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet) |
| granulated sugardivided | 1/4 cup |
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 4 cups |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| large eggsat room temperature | 2 |
| unsalted butter, softened | 8 tablespoons (1 stick) |
| unsalted butter, meltedfor brushing | 4 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt (optional) | for finishing |
Pour the warm milk into a large mixing bowl. The temperature matters here: too hot kills the yeast, too cool leaves it dormant. It should feel like comfortable bathwater against your wrist. Sprinkle the yeast and one teaspoon of the sugar over the surface. Let it sit undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes. You're looking for a foamy, slightly puffy surface that smells pleasantly of bread. If nothing happens, your yeast is dead. Start over with fresh.
Add the remaining sugar, the eggs, and the softened butter to the yeast mixture. Whisk until the butter breaks into smaller pieces and everything combines loosely. It won't be smooth, and that's fine. Add the flour and salt, then stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy mass forms. The dough will look rough and slightly sticky. This is correct.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, adding flour sparingly only if the dough sticks aggressively to your hands. You want a dough that's soft and slightly tacky, not stiff or dry. Push with the heel of your hand, fold, rotate, repeat. The dough is ready when it feels smooth and springs back slowly when poked. It should pass the windowpane test: a small piece stretched thin enough to see light through without tearing.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly greased bowl, turning once to coat all sides. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel. Set in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. The top of your refrigerator works well. So does an oven with just the light on. Don't rush this. The flavor develops during fermentation.
Punch down the risen dough to release the gas. Turn it onto a clean surface and divide into 24 equal pieces. A kitchen scale helps here: the total dough weighs roughly 32 ounces, so you're aiming for pieces just over an ounce each. Uniformity matters for even baking. Cover the portions loosely with plastic while you work to prevent drying.
Working with one piece at a time, roll it into a smooth ball by cupping your hand over the dough and moving in tight circles against the counter. The friction creates surface tension, which gives structure to the finished roll. Using a thin rolling pin or dowel, roll each ball into an oval about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. The center should be slightly thinner than the edges. Brush the entire surface with melted butter. Fold the oval in half so the top edge sits just shy of the bottom edge, about a quarter inch back. Press gently along the fold to seal. The offset creates the classic Parker House profile.
Place the shaped rolls in two buttered 9x13-inch baking pans, spacing them about half an inch apart. They should nearly touch but not crowd. As they proof and bake, they'll grow into each other, creating soft sides and pull-apart character. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and nearly doubled, 45 minutes to 1 hour. When you press a roll gently with your fingertip, the indentation should fill back slowly.
Heat your oven to 375°F during the final 20 minutes of proofing. Remove the plastic and brush the tops of the rolls generously with more melted butter. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. The rolls are done when deeply golden on top and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center reads 190°F. The kitchen will smell like everything good about autumn.
Remove from the oven and immediately brush with one final coat of melted butter. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt if desired. Let rest in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cloth-lined basket or serving platter. Serve warm. These rolls are at their absolute peak within 30 minutes of leaving the oven, though they remain excellent at room temperature for several hours.
1 roll (about 45g)
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