
Chef Juliana
Bauru Clássico (Ponto Chic)
You don't need a lanchonete password. Hollow the pão francês, soften four cheeses in hot water, tuck in real rosbife, tomato, and picles, and São Paulo dinner lands in your hand.
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You think a padaria roll is someone else's skill. It's not. Flour, water, yeast, salt, heat, and one wet burst in the oven make breakfast crackle at home.
You who look at bread dough and hear isso não é pra mim, come here. I used to be that woman too, the one who could love the smell of a São Paulo padaria and still think yeast was some private agreement between bakers. Nonsense. Cozinhar não é dom, é um aprendizado. Bread is just the lesson where the clock also gets a vote.
The pê-efe is the plate that holds the country steady: rice, beans, meat or egg, something green. Pão francês is the other daily handrail. It wakes the city with butter and coffee, comes back as pão na chapa, holds an omelet when dinner needs saving, and turns yesterday's meat into today's sandwich. This is comida de verdade too, not because it's fancy, but because it's ordinary and useful.
The method is plain. Mix until no dry flour hides at the bottom. Rest the dough so the flour drinks the water and stops fighting you. Knead until it stretches, rise until it swells, shape it tight so it knows where to open, cut the top so it doesn't burst wherever it feels like, then give the hot oven a burst of moisture so the crust stays flexible long enough to expand before it dries crisp.
Anota aí: this won't be the exact roll from the padaria oven, because they have hotter ovens, loaders, and sometimes powders I don't invite into my house. But it will be a real pão francês, thin-crusted, soft inside, good with butter, and made by your own hands. That's not a small thing.
Brazilian pão francês is an urban bakery roll shaped in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when French-style bread became fashionable in city bakeries and Brazilian bakers turned that influence into a small daily roll of their own. The name changes by region: pão de sal is common in Rio and Minas, and cacetinho appears in parts of Rio Grande do Sul and Bahia. In São Paulo, the padaria pãozinho became a morning measure as ordinary as café com leite, and pão na chapa made the same roll part of the city's balcão culture.
Quantity
4 cups (500 g), plus 2 tablespoons
extra flour for dusting
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 1/3 cups
warm like bath water, not hot
Quantity
1 cup
for the oven tray, not for the dough
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flourextra flour for dusting | 4 cups (500 g), plus 2 tablespoons |
| instant yeast | 2 teaspoons |
| fine salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| lukewarm waterwarm like bath water, not hot | 1 1/3 cups |
| boiling waterfor the oven tray, not for the dough | 1 cup |
Stir the flour, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Add the lukewarm water and mix with a spoon or your hand until no dry flour is hiding at the bottom. The dough should look shaggy and a little sticky, not smooth yet. Cover and rest for 20 minutes, because the flour needs time to drink the water. This rest makes kneading easier and keeps you from dumping in extra flour that would make the rolls heavy.
Knead on the counter for 8 to 10 minutes, pushing the dough away, folding it back, and turning it. It should go from rough to smooth, springy, and a little tacky. If it sticks badly, dust the counter with 1 teaspoon flour at a time, not handfuls. The kneading builds the stretchy net that holds the yeast bubbles. Too much flour tightens that net and gives you a dry little brick, and a gente is not doing that tonight.
Shape the dough into a ball, put it back in the bowl, cover, and let it rise until doubled, about 60 to 90 minutes depending on your kitchen. Press a floured fingertip into the dough. If the dent slowly fills back in, it's ready. If it snaps back fast, give it more time. Yeast follows the temperature of the room, not your impatience.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide it into 8 equal pieces, about 100 g each or a scant 1/2 cup of dough. Flatten each piece into a small rectangle, roll it up tightly from a short side, pinch the seam closed, and gently taper the ends. Put the rolls seam side down on parchment. That tight surface is what helps the bread lift upward in the oven instead of spreading flat like it gave up.
Cover the shaped rolls with a clean towel and let them puff for 40 to 60 minutes. While they proof, heat the oven to 240°C (465°F) with a heavy baking tray or baking stone on the middle rack and an empty metal pan on the lower rack. The rolls are ready when they look swollen and a fingertip dent fills back slowly. The hot tray gives the dough a fast push from below, and the proof decides whether the inside is soft or dense.
Use a sharp blade or serrated knife to cut one long line down the top of each roll, about 1 cm deep. Cut with confidence, not little scratches. The cut tells the bread where to open as it expands. Skip it and the dough bursts wherever it finds weakness, like a badly packed suitcase.
Slide the rolls, still on the parchment, onto the hot tray. Carefully pour 1 cup boiling water into the hot metal pan on the lower rack and close the oven door right away. Use metal, never glass, because sudden boiling water can crack glass. Bake for 10 minutes. That wet burst keeps the crust flexible while the rolls expand, so they open cleanly instead of setting too soon.
After 10 minutes, carefully remove the water pan or leave the oven door open for 10 seconds to let the extra moisture out. Lower the oven to 220°C (425°F) and bake 8 to 12 minutes more, until the rolls are deep golden, light in the hand, and hollow-sounding underneath when tapped. The second half needs drier heat so the thin crust can crisp.
Move the rolls to a rack and wait at least 15 minutes before cutting. You'll hear the crust tick softly as it settles. That is good. Cut too soon and the crumb turns gummy because the inside is still setting. Then split one, add butter, and collect the cook's tax.
1 serving (about 90g)
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