
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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Tender yeasted rolls swirled with fragrant orange zest and brown sugar, baked until golden, then lavished with a bright citrus glaze that pools into every crevice. The kind of recipe that turns a Saturday morning into an occasion worth remembering.
There was a time when Sunday mornings moved slower. When the smell of yeast and citrus drifting from the kitchen was reason enough to linger in bed, knowing something wonderful awaited. These rolls belong to that tradition, to the women who rose early and worked dough while the rest of the house slept.
Orange and yeast have a long partnership in American baking, stretching back to when fresh citrus was a winter luxury, arriving by rail from California and Florida to brighten tables in colder climates. The combination appears in church cookbooks and community recipe collections from every region, always with slight variations but the same essential spirit: fragrant, tender, impossibly comforting.
The method here is unhurried by design. Good bread dough cannot be rushed. You'll mix, knead, wait, shape, and wait again. Each rise develops flavor and texture that shortcuts destroy. But the actual hands-on work is simple and forgiving. If your grandmother could make these without a stand mixer or instant-read thermometer, you can too.
Quantity
1 cup
warmed to 110°F
Quantity
2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet)
Quantity
1/2 cup, divided
Quantity
4 cups (500g)
plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
6 tablespoons
softened
Quantity
2 large
zested, divided
Quantity
4 tablespoons
very soft
Quantity
1/2 cup
packed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
freshly squeezed
Quantity
2 cups
sifted
Quantity
3 tablespoons
freshly squeezed
Quantity
1 tablespoon
melted
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole milkwarmed to 110°F | 1 cup |
| active dry yeast | 2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet) |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 cup, divided |
| all-purpose flourplus more for dusting | 4 cups (500g) |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| large eggsat room temperature | 2 |
| unsalted butter (for dough)softened | 6 tablespoons |
| navel orangeszested, divided | 2 large |
| unsalted butter (for filling)very soft | 4 tablespoons |
| light brown sugarpacked | 1/2 cup |
| orange juice (for filling)freshly squeezed | 1 tablespoon |
| confectioners' sugarsifted | 2 cups |
| orange juice (for glaze)freshly squeezed | 3 tablespoons |
| unsalted butter (for glaze)melted | 1 tablespoon |
| pure vanilla extract | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt (for glaze) | pinch |
Pour the warm milk into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. The temperature matters here: too cool and the yeast sleeps, too hot and you kill it. Sprinkle the yeast and one tablespoon of the granulated sugar over the surface. Let it sit undisturbed for five to ten minutes until the mixture turns foamy and smells pleasantly beery. This is your proof that the yeast is alive and eager to work.
Add the remaining granulated sugar, two cups of the flour, and the salt to the yeast mixture. Beat on low speed until combined, then add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each. Add the softened butter and half of the orange zest. The dough will look shaggy and wet. Add the remaining flour one half cup at a time, mixing on medium-low until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and becomes smooth and slightly tacky. This takes eight to ten minutes with a stand mixer, longer by hand.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for two to three minutes by hand, even if you used a mixer. You're looking for a dough that springs back when poked, smooth as a baby's cheek and just barely sticky. It should hold together without leaving much residue on your hands. Resist adding excess flour. A slightly tacky dough produces pillowy rolls.
Grease a large bowl with butter or oil and place the dough inside, turning once to coat all surfaces. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and set in a warm, draft-free spot. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about one and a half to two hours. The top of your refrigerator works well if your kitchen runs cool. The dough is ready when an indentation made with your finger remains rather than springing back.
While the dough rises, combine the very soft butter with the brown sugar, remaining orange zest, and one tablespoon of orange juice in a small bowl. Mash and stir until it forms a spreadable paste. The butter must be soft enough to spread without tearing delicate dough. Set aside at room temperature.
Punch down the risen dough to deflate it. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and roll into a rectangle roughly twelve by eighteen inches, with the long side facing you. The dough should be about a quarter inch thick. Spread the orange filling evenly over the surface, leaving a half-inch border along the far edge. Work gently so you don't tear the dough.
Starting from the long edge closest to you, roll the dough into a tight log, keeping tension as you go but not stretching the dough. Pinch the seam closed and position the log seam-side down. Using a sharp knife or unflavored dental floss, cut the log into twelve equal pieces, each about one and a half inches wide. A gentle sawing motion prevents squashing the delicate swirl.
Butter a nine by thirteen inch baking dish generously. Place the rolls cut-side up in the dish, spacing them evenly in three rows of four. They should be close but not touching. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm spot for forty-five minutes to one hour, until puffy and the rolls are just touching each other.
Preheat your oven to 350°F during the final rise. Bake the rolls on the center rack for twenty-two to twenty-eight minutes, until the tops are golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 190°F. The kitchen will fill with the perfume of butter and orange. Rotate the pan halfway through if your oven heats unevenly. The edges will be slightly darker than the centers.
While the rolls bake, whisk together the sifted confectioners' sugar, three tablespoons of fresh orange juice, melted butter, vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt. The glaze should be thick but pourable, like heavy cream. If too thick, add orange juice half a teaspoon at a time. Too thin, add more sugar. The glaze thickens as it sits, so make it just before you need it.
Let the rolls cool in the pan for ten minutes. They're too fragile to handle straight from the oven, and the brief rest allows the glaze to set properly rather than melting into oblivion. Drizzle the glaze generously over the warm rolls, letting it pool in the crevices and drip down the sides. Serve warm, pulling them apart at the table while they're still soft and yielding.
1 serving (about 136g)
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