
Chef Isabel
Alubias de La Bañeza con Boletus
This León guiso pairs La Bañeza beans with wild boletus, a quiet autumn stew where the beans simmer gently and the mushrooms go in near the end, while they still have bite and perfume.
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Olla de San Antón is Granada's winter feast pot: dried favas and white beans cooked slow with salted pork, fresh pork, morcilla, rice, and wild fennel.
Olla de San Antón is Granadina, a winter pot from Granada for the feast of San Antón, when the matanza pork meets dried favas, white beans, rice, and wild fennel. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, but it is not just any bean stew. The dried habas, the pork from the household larder, and the fennel are what give it its Granada surname.
The method that decides it is the soaking and desalting before the pot ever reaches the fire. The dried beans need the night in water so they cook creamy instead of chalky, and the salted pork needs its own soak or the broth becomes a brine. Then the cooking is simple: start cold, bring it up gently, skim well, and hold it at a quiet simmer until the beans give in and the broth turns full.
If you are far from Granada, no hace falta haber pisado Espana. Use dried split-free fava beans, good dried white beans, Spanish morcilla if you can find it, and salted pork belly or smoked ham hock if you cannot get espinazo or costillas saladas. The taste will lean less toward the old matanza pot, but it will still be honest if the beans are good and you give them time.
Serve it as it is served there: the broth, beans, rice, and potatoes first, then the meats after as the pringa. In the Margin of my notebook this one has only a warning: do not salt early. The pork has plenty to say. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Olla de San Antón belongs to Granada and to the January feast of San Antón Abad, when winter cold and the household pig slaughter shaped what went into the pot. The dish uses dried favas, white beans, and the salted and cured parts of the pig that a family had put by, including ribs, spine, ear, tail, tocino, and morcilla. Wild fennel, hinojo, is the Granadino note that lifts the heavy pork broth and marks the stew as something more local than a plain olla.
Quantity
250g
soaked overnight
Quantity
250g
soaked overnight
Quantity
300g
soaked overnight and rinsed
Quantity
250g
cleaned
Quantity
250g
in one piece
Quantity
150g
in one piece
Quantity
1 small piece
Quantity
2 links, about 200g total
Quantity
1 large
peeled, left whole
Quantity
1 head
outer papery skin removed, left whole
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 small bundle
tied with string
Quantity
250g
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
only if needed at the end
Quantity
about 3 litres
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried fava beanssoaked overnight | 250g |
| dried white beanssoaked overnight | 250g |
| salted pork ribs or salted pork bonessoaked overnight and rinsed | 300g |
| pork ear, tail, or trottercleaned | 250g |
| fresh pork belly or pork shoulderin one piece | 250g |
| tocino or pancetain one piece | 150g |
| ham bone or jamon bone (optional) | 1 small piece |
| morcilla, preferably Spanish onion morcilla | 2 links, about 200g total |
| onionpeeled, left whole | 1 large |
| garlicouter papery skin removed, left whole | 1 head |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| wild fennel or fennel frondstied with string | 1 small bundle |
| potatoespeeled and cut into large chunks | 250g |
| short-grain rice | 80g |
| sweet pimenton | 1 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| salt | only if needed at the end |
| water | about 3 litres |
The night before, put the dried favas and white beans in a large bowl and cover them with plenty of cold water. Put the salted ribs or bones in a separate bowl of cold water. This separation matters: the beans need water to soften, and the pork needs water to lose enough salt that the broth stays edible.
Drain the beans and rinse the soaked pork. Put the favas, white beans, salted pork, ear or tail or trotter, fresh pork, tocino, and ham bone if using into a tall heavy pot. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, tied fennel, and about 3 litres cold water, enough to cover everything by 4cm. Bring it up slowly over medium heat.
When foam rises, skim it patiently until the surface looks clean. Lower the heat and keep the pot at a quiet simmer, not a rolling boil, for about 2 hours. A hard boil breaks the beans and clouds the broth; a gentle olla gives you tender beans and a broth with body. Shake the pot by its handles now and then instead of stirring hard.
When the beans are nearly tender, lift out the onion, garlic, and fennel bundle. Stir the sweet pimenton into the olive oil in a small cup, then add it to the pot with the potatoes. Simmer 15 minutes, then add the rice and cook 18 to 20 minutes more, until the rice is tender and the potatoes are soft at the edges.
Add the morcillas for the last 10 minutes only, keeping the simmer low so they warm through without bursting. Taste the broth before adding any salt. Most pots need none, because the salted pork and morcilla have already done the work.
Lift out the meats and morcilla to a board and let them settle for a few minutes. Serve the broth, beans, potatoes, and rice first in deep bowls. Then slice the pork, tocino, and morcilla and bring them to the table as the second course, the pringa, with bread for the broth.
1 serving (about 575g)
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