
Chef Isabel
Alubias de La Bañeza con Boletus
This León guiso pairs La Bañeza beans with wild boletus, a quiet autumn stew where the beans simmer gently and the mushrooms go in near the end, while they still have bite and perfume.
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Alubias en ajo colorado are Sevilla's spoon food: white beans cooked plain, then made deep and red-gold with a mortar paste of fried garlic, bread, saffron, cumin, and pimenton.
Alubias en ajo colorado are Sevillanas, from Sevilla and the Andalusian kitchen of beans, bread, garlic, and a mortar. What makes them this dish is not meat, nor a heavy stock, but the ajo colorado, a red-gold majado, the pounded paste of fried garlic, bread, saffron, cumin, and pimenton that thickens the pot at the end.
The method that decides it is the frying and pounding. Fry the garlic gently until gold, not brown, then fry the bread in that same oil so it carries the garlic into the beans. Pound it with the spices and a little bean broth until smooth. If the garlic burns, the whole pot turns bitter. If the bread is left chunky, the stew tastes unfinished. Pésalo, no lo adivines.
If you're far from Sevilla, you can still cook this well. Use small dried white beans, cannellini if that's what you can buy, and real pimenton de la Vera if possible. Saffron matters, but if it is dear, use less rather than replacing it with yellow powder. The colour will be quieter. The dish will still be honest.
This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, and it asks for patience more than skill. Cook the beans softly, add the majado late, and let the pot rest before serving so the broth tightens around the beans. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Alubias en ajo colorado belong to the inland Andalusian habit of making a full meal from legumes, stale bread, garlic, olive oil, and spices kept in the larder. In Sevilla and its surrounding countryside, majados from the mortar gave body to lean pots, especially in meatless cooking around Lent and in households where a little bread had to do the work of richness. The cumin and pimenton point to the southern taste for warm spice, while the saffron gives the stew its old red-gold colour without needing meat.
Quantity
350g
soaked overnight
Quantity
1.8 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
1 small
peeled and halved
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 small
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
6
peeled
Quantity
60g
cut into 2 thick slices
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small pinch
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
8g, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried small white beanssoaked overnight | 350g |
| cold water | 1.8 litres, plus more as needed |
| onionpeeled and halved | 1 small |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| dried Nora pepper (optional)stemmed and seeded | 1 small |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| garlic clovespeeled | 6 |
| day-old rustic breadcut into 2 thick slices | 60g |
| sweet pimenton de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| hot pimenton de la Vera (optional) | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cumin seeds | 1/2 teaspoon |
| saffron threads | 1 small pinch |
| vinagre de Jerez | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 8g, plus more to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
The night before, cover the beans with plenty of cold water and leave them to soak for 8 to 12 hours. Drain them before cooking. This is not fussing; soaked beans cook evenly, and dry beans thrown straight into the pot keep you waiting while their skins toughen.
Put the drained beans in a heavy pot with 1.8 litres cold water, the onion, bay leaf, and Nora pepper if using. Bring slowly to a simmer, skim the foam, then lower the heat until the surface barely moves. Cook uncovered or partly covered until the beans are tender but still whole, about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes, depending on age.
While the beans soften, warm the olive oil in a small frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic cloves and fry gently, turning often, until deep gold all over, 4 to 6 minutes. Lift them into a mortar. Fry the bread in the same oil until golden on both sides, then add it to the mortar too. Take the pan off the heat and keep the oil.
Toast the cumin seeds for 30 seconds in the warm pan if they need waking up, then add them to the mortar with the saffron, sweet pimenton, hot pimenton if using, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Pound everything to a thick paste. Add a ladle of hot bean broth and the vinagre de Jerez, then work it smooth enough to pour. The paste should smell of garlic, saffron, and warm pimenton, not raw spice.
When the beans are tender, remove the onion, bay leaf, and Nora pepper. Stir the majado into the pot gently, using a wooden spoon around the edges so you don't smash the beans. Add the reserved garlic oil from the pan. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the broth turns red-gold and coats the spoon.
Taste for salt, adding the remaining salt only if the beans need it. Take the pot off the heat and let it rest 10 minutes. Serve in deep bowls, with parsley only if you like its green bite. The stew should be thick but still spoonable, not a puree. Tal como se hace allí, plain and useful.
1 serving (about 320g)
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