
Chef Isabel
Alubias de La Bañeza con Boletus
This León guiso pairs La Bañeza beans with wild boletus, a quiet autumn stew where the beans simmer gently and the mushrooms go in near the end, while they still have bite and perfume.
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Caparrones Riojanos are La Rioja's red bean stew from Anguiano: small caparrón beans, pork rib, chorizo, and morcilla cooked low until the broth turns thick and red.
Caparrones Riojanos belong to La Rioja, and more exactly to the red bean country around Anguiano, where the small caparrón bean cooks into a thick, brick-red stew with chorizo, morcilla, and pork rib. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, made for a table that wants warmth and substance without fuss. It is not fabada, and it is not a generic bean pot. The bean is smaller, darker, and earthier, and the Riojanos give it the taste of choricero pepper and pimentón.
The method that decides it is the simmer, then the salt. Start the soaked beans in cold water with the pork, bring them up slowly, and keep them at a quiet tremble. Hard boiling breaks the skins and clouds the broth. Salt waits until the beans are tender, because the skin of a caparrón is part of its charm and you don't need to toughen it before it has done its work.
The sofrito, the slow onion base, comes in once the beans are underway: onion, green pepper, garlic, tomato, pimentón, and choricero pepper cooked low until sweet and dark. That is where the stew gets its Rioja depth. Rush it and you get red water with sausage in it, which is dinner, yes, but not this dinner.
If you can't find caparrones where you are, use small dried red kidney beans or good dried cranberry beans. The broth will be a little less creamy and the flavor a little less chestnut-deep, but the dish still knows where it is going if you keep the chorizo Spanish, use real morcilla, and salt at the end. No hace falta haber pisado España. My Margin says the same thing every time beside this one: watch the boil, then leave the pot alone.
Caparrones are tied to the upper Najerilla valley of La Rioja, especially Anguiano, where the small red bean became a local marker as much as an ingredient. The stew belongs to the same preserving logic as many northern bean pots: the household pig supplied chorizo, morcilla, rib, and panceta, and the dried bean carried that flavor through cold months. In Anguiano, caparrones are also linked to feast tables and local pride, served as a dish that names the place before it names the country.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight
Quantity
300g
cut into individual ribs
Quantity
200g
left whole or in 2 pieces
Quantity
200g
left whole
Quantity
100g
in one piece
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 medium
finely chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
3
2 minced and 1 left whole
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1
soaked and flesh scraped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
grated
Quantity
1.8 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
to taste
added at the end
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried caparrón beanssoaked overnight | 500g |
| pork ribscut into individual ribs | 300g |
| Spanish chorizo for cookingleft whole or in 2 pieces | 200g |
| Spanish morcilla for cookingleft whole | 200g |
| panceta or tocinoin one piece | 100g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium |
| green pepperfinely chopped | 1 |
| garlic cloves2 minced and 1 left whole | 3 |
| olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 1 teaspoon |
| dried choricero pepper (optional)soaked and flesh scraped | 1 |
| choricero pepper paste (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| tomatograted | 1 small |
| cold water | 1.8 litres, plus more as needed |
| saltadded at the end | to taste |
Rinse the caparrones, cover them with plenty of cold water, and soak them overnight. Drain them before cooking. Pésalo, no lo adivines: with dried beans, the weight and the soak are what make the timing honest.
Put the drained beans in a heavy pot with the pork ribs, chorizo, panceta, bay leaf, and the whole garlic clove. Add 1.8 litres cold water, enough to cover everything by about 3cm. Bring it up slowly to a gentle simmer, skimming the grey foam from the surface.
Lower the heat and keep the beans at a quiet tremble, not a hard boil. Cook for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, shaking the pot by the handles now and then instead of stirring hard with a spoon. If the beans show above the liquid, add a small splash of cold water.
While the beans cook, warm the olive oil in a small pan. Add the onion, green pepper, and minced garlic with a pinch of patience, not salt, and cook low for 18 to 22 minutes until the onion is dark gold and sweet. Stir in the grated tomato and cook until the water is gone. Pull the pan off the heat, stir in the pimentón and the choricero pepper flesh or paste, and let it smell warm and red without scorching.
Scrape the sofrito into the bean pot and shake the pot gently to settle it through the broth. Add the morcilla now so it warms through without bursting. Cook 35 to 50 minutes more, until the beans are tender all the way through and the broth has turned thick, red, and glossy. Salt only when the beans are tender; salt too early and those small skins can tighten before the inside softens.
Lift out the chorizo, morcilla, and panceta, slice them thickly, and return them to the pot with the ribs. Rest the stew off the heat for 15 minutes so the broth settles. Serve in deep bowls with a piece of each meat. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
1 serving (about 500g)
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