
Chef Dean
Apple Cinnamon Pancakes
Tender buttermilk pancakes folded with butter-glazed apple pieces and warm cinnamon, stacked high and drowning in maple syrup. This is Sunday morning the way it ought to be.
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Impossibly fluffy buttermilk pancakes with golden edges and tender centers, made the way your grandmother made them before boxed mixes convinced America that breakfast should come from a cardboard container.
The buttermilk pancake is American breakfast distilled to its essence. Flour, eggs, buttermilk, a touch of sugar, and the chemical magic of baking soda meeting acid. Our great-grandmothers made these without measuring cups, gauging flour by feel and buttermilk by color. They knew what we've forgotten: a proper pancake requires restraint.
The lumps in your batter are not mistakes. They are insurance against tough, rubbery pancakes. Overmix and the gluten develops, turning what should be tender into something approaching shoe leather. Mix until the flour just disappears into the buttermilk. Those small pockets of dry flour will hydrate on the griddle, creating the irregular texture that makes each bite interesting.
I learned pancakes from a woman who ran a logging camp kitchen in Oregon. She'd make three hundred of these before sunrise, working two griddles with the efficiency of a symphony conductor. Her secret was cold buttermilk, a ripping hot griddle, and the patience to wait for bubbles. When the surface looks like the moon, she'd say, that's when you flip. Not before. Never before.
Quantity
2 cups (240g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups (480ml)
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
4 tablespoons (56g)
melted and slightly cooled
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
for the griddle
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 2 cups (240g) |
| granulated sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| baking soda | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 3/4 teaspoon |
| cold buttermilk | 2 cups (480ml) |
| large eggsat room temperature | 2 |
| unsalted buttermelted and slightly cooled | 4 tablespoons (56g) |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted butter | for the griddle |
| warm maple syrup | for serving |
| butter (optional) | for serving |
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until evenly combined. Create a well in the center. This only takes thirty seconds but distributes the leavening agents throughout, preventing those bitter pockets of baking soda that ruin otherwise good pancakes.
In a separate bowl or large measuring pitcher, whisk the buttermilk with the eggs until the yolks are fully broken and incorporated. Add the melted butter in a steady stream while whisking. The butter may form small clumps when it hits the cold buttermilk. This is fine. Stir in the vanilla extract.
Pour the wet ingredients into the well of dry ingredients. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir gently in circular motions, working from the center outward. Stop the moment the flour disappears. The batter will be thick and lumpy, with visible streaks. This is correct. Walk away from the bowl. The urge to smooth those lumps will betray you.
Let the batter rest for five minutes while you heat your griddle. During this time, the flour hydrates, the gluten relaxes, and the baking soda begins its slow reaction with the acidic buttermilk. You'll notice the batter becoming slightly puffy. This rest transforms good pancakes into magnificent ones.
Set a cast iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Give it a full five minutes to heat evenly. Test the temperature by flicking a few drops of water onto the surface. They should dance and evaporate within two seconds. Too fast and your pan is screaming hot; too slow and you'll have pale, steamed pancakes.
Rub a thin film of butter across the hot griddle using a folded paper towel. You want a whisper of fat, not a pool. Too much butter and your pancakes fry rather than griddle, developing an unpleasant crust. Repeat this light buttering before each batch.
Using a quarter-cup measure or ladle, pour batter onto the griddle, leaving three inches between pancakes. The batter should spread into thick rounds about four inches across. Do not press or spread the batter. Watch the edges. Within ninety seconds, small bubbles will form across the surface. When the bubbles near the center begin to pop and hold their shape, leaving small craters, the bottom is set.
Slide a thin spatula under each pancake in one decisive motion. Flip quickly and cleanly. The second side cooks faster, about sixty to ninety seconds. The pancake is done when it feels springy to gentle pressure and the second side has developed golden-brown spots. Transfer to a warm plate.
Hold finished pancakes in a 200°F oven on a wire rack set over a baking sheet while you cook remaining batter. Do not stack them or cover with foil; they'll steam and turn gummy. Serve immediately with a generous pat of butter on each stack and warm maple syrup passed separately. The butter should begin melting the moment it touches the surface.
1 serving (about 160g)
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