
Chef Elsa
Apfelradeln
Thick apple rings in a light, eggy batter, fried golden in butter and oil, then buried under cinnamon sugar while they're still hot enough to melt it on contact.
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Handrolled potato noodles tossed in browned butter with ground walnuts, sugar, and cinnamon, the kind of sweet Austrian main course that makes people who've never encountered Mehlspeisen question everything they thought they knew about dinner.
Nussnudeln were the first thing I ever made entirely by myself in my grandmother Eva's kitchen. I was maybe eight. Gretel was there, sitting at the table with her notebook, and she watched me roll each one without saying a word until I started rushing them. Then she said, gently: slow hands make good noodles. I've told that to every cook who's ever worked for me.
Most people outside Austria hear 'walnut noodles for dinner' and don't know what to do with the information. A sweet dish as a main course? Noodles made from potatoes, rolled by hand, boiled, then tossed in browned butter and ground walnuts with sugar? It sounds like dessert pretending to be supper. But Mehlspeisen are the heart of Austrian cuisine, not an afterthought, and sweet main courses are a tradition that goes back centuries. Nussnudeln, Mohnnudeln, Marillenknodel, Germknodel: these aren't sides or sweets. They're the meal. Austrians eat them on their own, with nothing else on the plate, and they mean it.
The potato dough is the foundation. You boil floury potatoes, rice them while they're still hot, and work in just enough flour to hold everything together. The less you handle it, the lighter the noodles. Roll them into short, finger-thick pieces, drop them into barely simmering water, and wait for them to float. Then into a pan of browned butter, ground walnuts, sugar, and a little cinnamon. The butter does most of the talking. When it browns past the foaming stage and starts to smell like roasted hazelnuts, that's Nussbutter, and it turns a simple coating into something with real depth. The walnuts toast gently in that butter, the sugar dissolves into a thin glaze, and each noodle comes out golden, fragrant, and completely irresistible.
This is good Austrian home cooking. Simple ingredients, proper technique, no pretension. Serve them on a warm plate with powdered sugar dusted over the top and nothing else.
Nussnudeln belong to the broader Austrian tradition of Schupfnudeln or Erdäpfelnudeln, handrolled potato noodles with regional roots across Lower Austria, Upper Austria, and Salzburg. Sweet preparations with walnuts, poppy seeds, or breadcrumbs reflect the Mehlspeisen culture where flour-based sweet dishes served as economical main courses in rural households, particularly on fast days when meat was forbidden. The walnut coating is more common in the western Austrian provinces, while the poppy seed version, Mohnnudeln, dominates in Lower Austria and Vienna, following the same geographic divide that separates many Austrian pantry traditions.
Quantity
500g
Quantity
150g
plus extra for dusting
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
20g
melted and cooled
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
120g
Quantity
80g
Quantity
60g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoes (Mehlig kochend) | 500g |
| griffiges Mehl (coarse flour)plus extra for dusting | 150g |
| egg | 1 large |
| unsalted butter (for dough)melted and cooled | 20g |
| salt | pinch |
| walnuts | 120g |
| unsalted butter (for coating) | 80g |
| granulated sugar | 60g |
| vanilla sugar (Vanillezucker) | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| powdered sugar | for dusting |
Boil the potatoes whole in their skins in salted water until a knife slides through without any resistance, about twenty-five minutes depending on size. Drain them and peel while they're still hot. Use a tea towel to hold them if you need to. Press the peeled potatoes through a ricer or a fine sieve immediately onto a clean, floured work surface. Spread them out and let them cool until you can comfortably touch the pile, about ten minutes. Do not skip the ricer. A fork or a masher leaves lumps, and lumps in this dough mean lumps in your noodles.
Add the flour, egg, melted butter, and a pinch of salt to the riced potatoes. Work everything together quickly with your hands into a smooth dough. This should take two minutes at most. You're not making bread. You're not developing gluten. You're just bringing it together until it holds and feels soft, a little tacky, and pliable. If you knead too long, the dough turns gluey and the noodles come out heavy instead of tender. Gretel always said: the less you touch potato dough, the more it rewards you.
Dust your work surface with flour. Pull off a piece of dough about the size of a small plum and roll it gently under your palms into a finger-thick rope, about two centimeters wide and eight to ten centimeters long. Taper the ends slightly. Set each finished noodle on a floured tray. Repeat until you've used all the dough. You should get roughly twenty to twenty-four noodles. They don't need to be identical. A little variation is honest. What matters is that they're even enough in thickness to cook at the same rate.
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a gentle boil. Lower the heat until the surface barely moves. Drop the noodles in, working in two batches if your pot isn't wide enough to hold them in a single layer. They sink to the bottom. Leave them alone. After three to four minutes they'll float to the surface. Let them bob there for another minute, then lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain briefly on a clean tea towel. Don't let the water reach a rolling boil or the noodles will break apart. A gentle simmer is all they need.
While the noodles cook, grind the walnuts in short pulses until you have a mix of fine and slightly coarse pieces. You don't want walnut flour. You want texture, something that catches on the noodles and gives each bite a little crunch. Melt the 80g of butter in a wide pan over medium heat. When it foams and the foam begins to subside, the milk solids are browning. You'll smell something warm and nutty. That's Nussbutter, and it changes the whole dish. Add the ground walnuts, sugar, Vanillezucker, and cinnamon. Stir for about a minute until the sugar dissolves into the butter and the walnuts toast just slightly darker.
Add the drained noodles to the walnut butter and toss gently with two spoons, rolling them until every surface is coated. The butter and sugar create a thin, caramelized shell around each noodle while the walnuts cling to the outside. Pile them onto warm plates. Dust with powdered sugar at the table. Eat them while they're hot. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 225g)
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