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Maionese Fatta in Casa

Maionese Fatta in Casa

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The mother sauce of cold preparations, made by hand with egg yolks and olive oil whisked into a stable emulsion. This is technique, not cooking. The arm remembers what the mind forgets.

Sauces & Condiments
Italian
Weeknight
Make Ahead
20 min
Active Time
0 min cook20 min total
Yield1 1/2 cups

Mayonnaise is an emulsion. Two substances that do not want to combine, egg yolk and oil, forced into unity through mechanical action. Understanding this is the first step. The second step is patience.

I have watched students fail at mayonnaise because they were in a hurry. They added oil too quickly, they did not whisk with enough vigor, they used cold eggs straight from the refrigerator. The emulsion breaks. They stare at the curdled mess and ask what went wrong. Everything went wrong. They did not respect the process.

Italians use mayonnaise as a foundation. It accompanies bollito misto, the grand boiled meat platter of the north. It binds the tuna sauce for vitello tonnato. It dresses cold vegetables in insalata russa. These dishes demand real mayonnaise, made by hand, with good olive oil and fresh eggs. The commercial product in jars is not mayonnaise. It is something else entirely.

The name mayonnaise likely derives from Mahón, the capital of Menorca, where French forces encountered a local sauce after capturing the city in 1756. Whether the sauce traveled to France or was invented there remains disputed. What is certain is that Italian cooks adopted it for their cold preparations, particularly in the north, where it became essential to the antipasto table and the grand bollito misto of Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna.

The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.

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Ingredients

large egg yolks

Quantity

2

at room temperature

fine sea salt

Quantity

1/2 teaspoon

Dijon mustard

Quantity

1/2 teaspoon

mild extra virgin olive oil

Quantity

1 cup

at room temperature

fresh lemon juice

Quantity

1 tablespoon

warm water

Quantity

1 teaspoon

Equipment Needed

  • Heavy medium mixing bowl
  • Large balloon whisk
  • Measuring cup with pouring spout
  • Damp kitchen towel to anchor the bowl
  • Glass jar with lid for storage

Instructions

  1. 1

    Prepare your ingredients

    Set the egg yolks on the counter at least one hour before you begin. Cold yolks will not emulsify properly. This is chemistry, not suggestion. The oil must also be at room temperature. Measure everything before you start. Once you begin whisking, you cannot stop to hunt for the lemon juice.

    If you forgot to temper your eggs, place them in a bowl of warm water for ten minutes. Not hot. Warm. You are bringing them to room temperature, not cooking them.
  2. 2

    Establish the base

    Place the egg yolks, salt, and mustard in a medium bowl. The bowl should be heavy enough to stay still while you whisk with vigor. Set it on a damp kitchen towel to prevent spinning. Whisk the yolks until they thicken slightly and turn pale yellow, about one minute. The mustard is not for flavor. It contains lecithin, which helps the emulsion hold.

  3. 3

    Begin adding oil drop by drop

    Here is where patience matters. Add the oil one drop at a time, whisking constantly. I mean this literally. One drop, whisk, one drop, whisk. Do this for the first quarter cup of oil. If you rush, the emulsion will break and you will have a bowl of greasy yellow liquid. There are no shortcuts. This takes approximately five minutes.

    Pour the oil into a measuring cup with a spout. Control is everything. Some cooks drape a towel over the measuring cup and let the oil seep through drop by drop. Others use a squeeze bottle. Find what works for you.
  4. 4

    Increase to a thin stream

    Once you have incorporated the first quarter cup and the mixture looks thick and creamy, you may add the remaining oil in a very thin, steady stream, whisking constantly. Very thin. The width of a pencil lead. Continue until all the oil is incorporated. The mayonnaise should be thick enough to hold soft peaks when you lift the whisk.

  5. 5

    Finish with lemon and water

    Whisk in the lemon juice. The mayonnaise will loosen slightly and brighten in color. Add the warm water. This stabilizes the emulsion and lightens the texture. Taste for salt. The mayonnaise should taste clean and bright, with the olive oil present but not overwhelming.

  6. 6

    Store properly

    Transfer to a clean glass jar and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate immediately. The mayonnaise will thicken further as it chills. Use within five days. If it separates slightly, whisk it back together before serving.

Chef Tips

  • Use a mild, buttery olive oil, not a peppery Tuscan one. Intense olive oils become bitter when emulsified. If your only olive oil is strongly flavored, use half olive oil and half neutral vegetable oil.
  • If your mayonnaise breaks, all is not lost. Start with a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and whisk the broken mayonnaise into it drop by drop, as if it were oil. The new yolk will rescue the emulsion.
  • A pinch of white pepper is traditional in some regions. Add it at the end if you like. Black pepper leaves visible specks, which some find unattractive in a white sauce.
  • For aioli, the garlic mayonnaise of the Mediterranean, pound two cloves of garlic to a paste with the salt before adding the egg yolks. The garlic should dissolve completely into the sauce.

Advance Preparation

  • Mayonnaise must be made fresh but keeps well for five days refrigerated. Make it the morning you need it, or the day before.
  • Bring refrigerated mayonnaise to cool room temperature before serving for best texture and flavor. Ten minutes on the counter is sufficient.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 23g)

Calories
170 calories
Total Fat
19 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
16 g
Cholesterol
30 mg
Sodium
100 mg
Total Carbohydrates
0 g
Dietary Fiber
0 g
Sugars
0 g
Protein
1 g

Note: Chef personas and recipes are created with AI assistance. Cook with care: follow safe food-handling practices, check doneness with a thermometer when needed, and adapt for allergies and your kitchen.

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