
Chef Dimitra
Anginares a la Polita, Constantinople Artichokes (Αγκινάρες αλά Πολίτα)
Constantinople's spring artichokes, pale and lemony, braised with potato, carrot, peas, dill, and enough olive oil to make the sauce shine.
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Macedonian peas cooked the lathero way: potato, carrot, tomato, olive oil, and dill folded in at the end so the pot tastes green, sweet, and properly spring.
Macedonian arakas latheros is the spring pea pot of Thessaloniki kitchens: peas, potato, carrot, tomato, and a fistful of dill cooked in enough olive oil to make the sauce shine. It is nistisimo, suitable for the fasting table when olive oil is permitted, but it eats like a proper main dish, not a penance.
One method decides it: don't drown the peas. Add only enough hot water to come partway up the vegetables, then let the pot sit on a low bubble until the potatoes soften and the tomato and oil gather into a glossy sauce. Boil it hard and you get wet vegetables. Cook it patiently and you get lathero, oil-sauced, sweet, green, and ready for bread.
The dill goes in at the end. I keep this small stubbornness because boiled dill turns brown and loses its breath; folded through off the heat, it stays green and tells you this is spring. My mother Sofia made it on weekdays in Thessaloniki with frozen peas when the market ones were gone. No shame. A good frozen pea is better than an old fresh one.
Arakas latheros belongs to the ladera (λαδερά) family, oil-rich vegetable dishes that became main courses in Greek home cooking on ordinary weekdays and oil-permitted fasting days. In Macedonia and Thessaloniki kitchens, peas are commonly stewed with potato, carrot, tomato, spring onion, and dill; farther south the same pot may turn lemonier or lighter on tomato. The name comes from ladi (λάδι), oil, which is why the finished dish should be glossy and spoonable, not watery.
Quantity
90ml
divided
Quantity
180g
finely chopped
Quantity
60g
thinly sliced
Quantity
180g
cut into 1cm rounds
Quantity
400g
peeled and cut into 3cm chunks
Quantity
500g
Quantity
15g
Quantity
300g fresh or 250g canned
fresh tomatoes grated
Quantity
240ml
plus up to 60ml if needed
Quantity
7g
plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 tsp
Quantity
30g
roughly chopped
Quantity
1
cut into wedges, for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| extra virgin Greek olive oil, preferably Koroneikidivided | 90ml |
| yellow onionfinely chopped | 180g |
| spring onionsthinly sliced | 60g |
| carrotscut into 1cm rounds | 180g |
| waxy potatoespeeled and cut into 3cm chunks | 400g |
| shelled fresh peas or frozen peas | 500g |
| tomato paste | 15g |
| ripe tomatoes or canned crushed tomatoesfresh tomatoes grated | 300g fresh or 250g canned |
| hot waterplus up to 60ml if needed | 240ml |
| fine sea saltplus more to taste | 7g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 tsp |
| fresh dillroughly chopped | 30g |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges, for serving | 1 |
Have the onion, spring onions, carrots, potatoes, peas, and dill ready before the pot starts. If you're using frozen peas, keep them frozen and rinse only to loosen clumps. They don't need thawing.
Warm 60ml of the olive oil in a wide, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion, spring onions, carrots, and a pinch of the measured salt. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring often, until the onion turns glossy and sweet but takes no color.
Stir in the tomato paste and let it darken for 30 seconds. Add the grated tomatoes or canned crushed tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, until the tomato smells round and the oil shows orange at the edges.
Add the potatoes, peas, remaining salt, black pepper, and 240ml hot water. The liquid should sit just below the top layer of vegetables, not cover them like soup. Bring to a low bubble, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the potatoes are nearly tender.
Uncover the pot and simmer gently for 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the pot now and then instead of stirring hard. The potatoes should yield to a fork, the peas should be soft, and the tomato-oil sauce should look glossy enough to cling to a spoon.
Take the pot off the heat. Fold in the dill and the remaining 30ml olive oil, then let the arakas rest for 10 minutes before serving. The dill goes in at the end because boiled dill turns dull and quiet; off the heat it stays green and keeps its scent. Serve warm or at room temperature, with lemon wedges if you like.
1 serving (about 450g)
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