Longevity Noodles (Chang Shou Mian)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •14-inch flat-bottomed wok or large skillet
• •Spider strainer or slotted spoon
• •Large serving platter, warmed

Instructions

1. 1

   Marinate the pork

   Combine the sliced pork with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and cornstarch in a bowl. Toss to coat thoroughly. The cornstarch forms a protective coating that keeps the meat tender during high-heat cooking. This technique, called velveting, separates restaurant stir-fry from the rubbery disasters most home cooks produce. Let the pork rest while you prepare everything else, at least 15 minutes.

   Freeze the pork for 20 minutes before slicing. Firm meat cuts cleaner and thinner than room-temperature protein.
2. 2

   Prepare the sauce

   Whisk together the oyster sauce, dark soy sauce, remaining 1 tablespoon regular soy sauce, sesame oil, white pepper, and chicken stock in a small bowl. Set this beside your stove. Once the wok gets hot, you won't have time to measure. The dark soy adds color and a subtle molasses depth. Skip it and your noodles will look pale and timid.

3. 3

   Cook the noodles

   Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the noodles and cook according to package directions, usually 3 to 4 minutes for yi mein, slightly less than al dente. The noodles will finish cooking in the wok. Here is where tradition demands attention: lower the noodles gently into the water and lift them out the same way. Do not dump them. Do not stir aggressively. You want these strands intact. Drain and toss immediately with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil to prevent sticking. Spread them on a sheet pan in a single layer if not using immediately.

   Use tongs or a spider strainer to handle the noodles with care. A colander dumped upside down invites breakage and bad luck alike.
4. 4

   Stir-fry the pork

   Heat your wok over the highest flame your stove can produce. Wait until you see the first wisp of smoke rising from the metal. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and swirl to coat. Add the marinated pork in a single layer and let it sear without moving for 30 seconds. You want color. Toss and cook another minute until just cooked through, still slightly pink in the center. The residual heat will finish it. Transfer to a plate immediately. An overcooked pork slice is a failure of nerve.

5. 5

   Stir-fry the aromatics and vegetables

   Return the wok to high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil. When it shimmers, add the garlic, ginger, and white parts of the green onions. Stir constantly for 20 seconds. The fragrance should hit you immediately, sharp and promising. Add the cabbage, mushrooms, and bell pepper. Toss vigorously for 2 minutes until the vegetables brighten in color but retain their snap. Limp vegetables have no place in a proper stir-fry.

6. 6

   Combine and toss

   Add the noodles to the wok. Pour the sauce mixture over everything. Here comes the critical moment: use two wooden spoons or a spider strainer and spatula to lift and toss the noodles gently. Fold them over themselves rather than stirring in circles. You're coating, not tangling. Work quickly. Add the bean sprouts and cooked pork. Toss for another minute until the sauce clings to every strand and the noodles glisten. The liquid should be absorbed, not pooling at the bottom.

   Work in batches if your wok is small. Overcrowding drops the temperature and steams the ingredients rather than searing them.
7. 7

   Finish and serve

   Cut the heat. Scatter the green onion tops over the noodles and give one final gentle toss. Transfer to a large warmed platter using tongs, lifting the noodles high and letting them cascade down to show off their length. Serve immediately, family style, with the longest strands positioned on top. Tradition holds that the eldest family member should be served first, receiving wishes for continued long life with each strand they consume.

Chef Tips

• •Look for yi mein (also labeled e-fu noodles or longevity noodles) in Asian grocery stores. They come in large round cakes and have an appealing chewiness. Standard lo mein noodles or fresh Shanghai noodles also work well.
• •The protein is endlessly adaptable. Chicken thigh, shrimp, or pressed tofu can replace the pork. Slice everything uniformly thin for even cooking.
• •Shaoxing wine is worth seeking out for Chinese cooking. Dry sherry makes an acceptable substitute, but the real thing costs only a few dollars and keeps indefinitely in your pantry.
• •A carbon steel wok properly seasoned produces the best results. If using a nonstick pan, you'll never achieve the same char, but the dish will still satisfy.
• •For vegetarian guests, omit the pork and use vegetable stock with an extra tablespoon of mushroom soy sauce for depth.

Advance Preparation

• •The pork can be marinated up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated. The cornstarch coating actually improves with time.
• •Vegetables can be washed, sliced, and stored in separate containers up to 2 days ahead. Keep the garlic and ginger separate from the cut vegetables to preserve their potency.
• •The sauce mixture keeps refrigerated for up to a week. Make a double batch if you plan to cook for crowds throughout the holiday season.
• •Noodles are best cooked fresh, but can be boiled and oiled up to 4 hours ahead. Spread on sheet pans and cover loosely. Do not refrigerate or they'll clump hopelessly.
• •For large gatherings, prep all components and organize in bowls near the stove. The actual cooking takes only 10 minutes once your wok is hot. Cook multiple batches rather than crowding, keeping finished portions warm in a 200°F oven.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 380g)