
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Käsesuppe
The Allgäu's Alpine cheese soup works only if the Bergkäse melts gently off the heat, where it turns smooth instead of stringy.
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Swabia's weekday and Sunday lentil plate, brown lentils sharpened with vinegar only after they soften, spooned over fresh Spätzle with a Saitenwürstle alongside.
Linsen mit Spätzle und Saiten is Swabian table food, and Swabia is not shy about claiming it. Brown lentils, fresh Spätzle, a Saitenwürstle, a little vinegar to wake the pot. It is weeknight food when you have the lentils soaked, Sunday food when the Spätzle are made properly, and budget food because a small piece of smoked bacon can season the whole pot.
Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. The north gives you pea soup with smoked pork and rye bread; the Rhineland likes its lentils sweeter with vinegar and apple here and there. Swabia puts them over Spätzle, because a good noodle catches the broth and turns a plain lentil stew into a plate you remember.
The rule is simple: the vinegar goes in at the end. Put it in early and the acid tightens the lentil skins, so they stay hard while the inside goes tired. Add it after the lentils are tender and it cuts through the bacon, the broth, and the floury Spätzle without ruining the texture. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Make the Spätzle fresh if you can. Beat the batter until it pulls and bubbles, rest it, then scrape or press it into water that's moving but not angry. The Saiten are warmed gently, never boiled hard, because a split sausage has already told you the cook stopped paying attention. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Linsen mit Spätzle und Saiten is most closely tied to Württemberg and Swabia, where lentils were grown on the poor, stony soils of the Swabian Alb before large-scale imports pushed local varieties out in the 20th century. The old Alb-Leisa lentils nearly disappeared, then were revived from seed-bank stock in the early 2000s by growers around Lauterach, which put a regional crop back under a dish many people had kept cooking with imported lentils. The Saitenwürstle, a slim smoked pork and beef sausage related to the Frankfurter, marks the dish as southern German, while the vinegar edge keeps it in the sour-savoury line of Swabian cooking.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
100g
diced
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
1 small piece or 1 stalk
finely diced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 litre
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 to 3 tablespoons, plus more at the table
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
4
Quantity
400g
Quantity
4
Quantity
120ml, plus more as needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
a little
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| brown lentils, preferably Alb-Leisa or small mountain lentils | 250g |
| lard or neutral oil | 1 tablespoon |
| smoked bacondiced | 100g |
| onionfinely diced | 1 |
| carrotfinely diced | 1 |
| small leekfinely diced | 1 |
| celeriac or celery stalkfinely diced | 1 small piece or 1 stalk |
| tomato paste | 1 tablespoon |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| beef stock or vegetable stock | 1 litre |
| butter | 1 tablespoon |
| plain flour | 1 tablespoon |
| red wine vinegar | 2 to 3 tablespoons, plus more at the table |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| Saitenwürstle or Frankfurter-style smoked sausages | 4 |
| plain flour for Spätzle | 400g |
| eggs | 4 |
| cold water or milk | 120ml, plus more as needed |
| salt for Spätzle batter | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly grated nutmeg | a little |
Rinse the lentils and pick out any stones. Small brown lentils don't need soaking, but a 2-hour soak shortens the cooking and helps them finish evenly; old lentils are stubborn, and the soak tells you before dinner is late.
Warm the lard in a heavy pot and cook the bacon until its fat runs and the edges take colour. Add the onion, carrot, leek, and celeriac with a pinch of salt and cook until the onion turns glassy, because the vegetables need to sweeten before the liquid goes in. Stir in the tomato paste for a minute so it darkens and loses its raw tin taste.
Add the lentils, bay leaf, and stock, then bring it to a gentle simmer. Keep the pot moving quietly, not boiling hard, because hard boiling breaks the lentils before their skins soften. Cook 35 to 50 minutes, depending on the age of the lentils, until they are tender but still whole.
While the lentils cook, beat the flour, eggs, water or milk, salt, and nutmeg into a thick batter that pulls from the spoon in heavy ribbons. Beat it until bubbles show, then rest it 15 minutes; the beating gives the dough strength, and the rest lets the flour drink the liquid so the Spätzle cook springy instead of pasty.
Bring a wide pot of salted water to a lively simmer. Press the batter through a Spätzle press or scrape it from a board into the water, working in batches so the noodles have room. When they float, give them another 30 seconds, then lift them out with a slotted spoon; floating tells you the starch has set and the egg has cooked through.
Melt the butter in a small pan, stir in the flour, and cook it until pale nut-brown. Stir this roux into the lentils and simmer 5 minutes so the raw flour taste disappears and the broth turns lightly glossy. Nicht aus dem Glas. The sauce is made in the pot, not poured from one.
Take out the bay leaf, then season the lentils with salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons vinegar. Taste, then add the last spoon if the pot still tastes flat. The vinegar belongs after the lentils are tender, because acid tightens the skins early but brightens the broth late. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
Lay the Saitenwürstle in hot water or in the top of the lentil pot for 8 to 10 minutes without boiling. A hard boil splits the casing and drives out the fat, and that fat is the flavour you paid for. Spoon Spätzle into warm shallow bowls, ladle the lentils over them, and set a sausage alongside.
1 serving (about 740g)
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