Lenticchie in Umido

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 3-quart saucepan or small Dutch oven
• •Rimmed baking sheet for sorting lentils

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the lentils

   Spread the lentils on a rimmed baking sheet and pick through them, discarding any stones or debris. Rinse under cold water. Unlike other legumes, lentils do not require soaking. This is their great advantage for the home cook who did not plan ahead.

2. 2

   Render the pancetta

   In a heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the edges turn golden, about 5 minutes. The pancetta should not become crisp. You want its fat, not its crunch.

3. 3

   Build the soffritto

   Add the onion, carrot, and celery to the rendered pancetta. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are completely soft and the onion is pale gold, about 12 minutes. Add the crushed garlic cloves, bay leaves, and sage. Cook one minute more until fragrant. The garlic must not brown.

   The soffritto is the foundation of Italian cooking. One can often trace the unsatisfying taste of would-be Italian dishes to the reluctance of cooks to execute this step thoroughly. Give it time.
4. 4

   Add the tomato paste

   Push the vegetables to the side and add the tomato paste to the cleared space. Let it fry in the oil for 30 seconds, stirring constantly, until it darkens slightly and smells sweet rather than raw. This concentrates its flavor. Stir it into the vegetables.

5. 5

   Add lentils and liquid

   Add the rinsed lentils and stir to coat them with the soffritto. Pour in the water or broth. The liquid should cover the lentils by about one inch. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low. The surface should barely tremble.

   Do not add salt yet. Salt added too early can toughen the lentil skins and prevent them from cooking evenly. Wait until the last ten minutes.
6. 6

   Simmer until tender

   Cook uncovered at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still hold their shape, 25 to 35 minutes depending on the age and variety of your lentils. The liquid should reduce to leave the lentils moist but not swimming. If they dry out before becoming tender, add water by the half cup. In the last ten minutes, season with salt and pepper.

7. 7

   Finish and serve

   Remove and discard the garlic cloves, bay leaves, and sage. Taste and adjust seasoning. The lentils should be creamy within but distinct, not mushy. Transfer to a warm serving bowl and drizzle generously with your best olive oil. Serve alongside cotechino or zampone, or as a contorno with any rich braised meat.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out Castelluccio lentils from Umbria or small French green lentils (lentilles du Puy). They hold their shape far better than common brown lentils, which can turn to porridge without warning.
• •The pancetta is not optional if you want authentic flavor, but the dish can be made vegetarian by omitting it and adding an extra tablespoon of olive oil. The character changes, but it remains good.
• •Leftover lentils thicken considerably in the refrigerator. Add a splash of water when reheating and adjust the seasoning. They are often better the second day.

Advance Preparation

• •Lenticchie in umido can be made one day ahead and refrigerated. Reheat gently over low heat, adding water as needed to restore the proper consistency.
• •The dish does not freeze well. The lentils become mealy and lose their pleasant texture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 300g)