
Chef Jeong-sun
Baechu-jeon (배추전, Napa Cabbage Pancake)
A Gyeongsang home pancake made from one whole napa cabbage leaf at a time, flattened at the rib, brushed in thin salted batter, and fried until sweet, tender, and quietly crisp at the edges.
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Fragrant perilla leaves folded over a measured meat and tofu filling, then egg-dipped and pan-fried slowly until the leaf turns tender and the center cooks through.
Kkaennip-jeon lives or dies by restraint. The leaf is thin, the filling is small, and the pan cannot be rushed. Overfill it and the meat pushes out. Fry it too hot and the egg browns before the center is cooked. This is not difficult food, but it asks for tidy hands.
My teacher, Master Seong-nyeo, made us weigh the filling once, then divide it by sight after that. 눈동냥, 귀동냥, borrowing with the eyes and ears, only works after the hand has learned the number. For one large perilla leaf, 1 rounded tablespoon of filling is enough. The leaf should still close flat, like a small green envelope.
On a holiday table, kkaennip-jeon sits beside donggeurang-ttaeng (small meat patties), saengseon-jeon (fish jeon), and skewered sanjeok, but it never tastes heavy because the perilla cuts through the meat. Make it for Chuseok, bring it to a potluck, or eat it warm with rice and kimchi on an ordinary evening. Write down the size of your leaves and the amount of filling that fit them. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Jeon, foods coated in flour and egg then pan-fried, appears across Joseon-era records under names such as jeonya and jeonyueo, with versions made from fish, meat, vegetables, and mushrooms. Kkaennip-jeon is not a palace dish dressed for company; it belongs to the home and holiday table, where Korea's long use of perilla leaves and deulkkae (perilla seed) met the practical minced-meat fillings common in twentieth-century family cooking. It remains especially tied to Seollal and Chuseok jeon platters, though many homes now make it year-round as banchan or drinking food.
Quantity
18 large leaves
washed and dried very well
Quantity
200g
Quantity
150g
pressed and crumbled
Quantity
1/4 small, about 40g
finely minced
Quantity
1 small, about 40g
finely minced
Quantity
2
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
1 teaspoon
lightly crushed
Quantity
1/3 cup
for dusting
Quantity
3 large
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for egg wash
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
for egg wash
Quantity
3 to 4 tablespoons
for pan-frying
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| kkaennip (Korean perilla leaves)washed and dried very well | 18 large leaves |
| ground beef or ground pork | 200g |
| firm tofupressed and crumbled | 150g |
| onionfinely minced | 1/4 small, about 40g |
| carrotfinely minced | 1 small, about 40g |
| scallionsfinely chopped | 2 |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 teaspoon |
| rice wine or mirin | 1 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/4 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedslightly crushed | 1 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flourfor dusting | 1/3 cup |
| eggs | 3 large |
| waterfor egg wash | 1 tablespoon |
| kosher saltfor egg wash | 1/8 teaspoon |
| neutral oilfor pan-frying | 3 to 4 tablespoons |
| soy saucefor dipping sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| rice vinegarfor dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| waterfor dipping sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional)for dipping sauce | 1/2 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedsfor dipping sauce | 1/2 teaspoon |
Rinse the perilla leaves gently and dry them completely between towels. Water is the enemy here. A wet leaf sheds flour, the egg slides off, and the filling will not stay neatly sealed. Trim only the tough tip of each stem, leaving enough stem to hold the leaf while you fold.
Wrap the tofu in a clean towel and press it for 10 minutes under a small plate, then crumble it fine. You should have about 120g after pressing. Tofu stretches the filling and keeps it tender, but only if the extra water is gone.
In a bowl, combine the ground meat, pressed tofu, onion, carrot, scallions, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine, salt, pepper, and crushed sesame seeds. Mix with your hand in one direction for 1 to 2 minutes, just until the filling turns sticky and holds together. That stickiness is what keeps the thin layer from crumbling inside the leaf.
Put the flour in a shallow plate. Lay one perilla leaf vein-side up, the duller side facing you. Dust the inside lightly with flour and shake off the excess. The flour is not for thickness; it is glue for the filling.
Place 1 rounded tablespoon, about 18g, of filling on one half of the leaf and spread it into a thin, even layer, stopping 1/4 inch from the edge. Fold the other half over and press gently so the leaf closes flat. If the filling bulges, you used too much. Make all 18 before you heat the pan.
Beat the eggs with 1 tablespoon water and 1/8 teaspoon salt until no streaks remain. Dust each folded leaf very lightly in flour on both sides, shake well, then dip in the egg. Let the excess egg drip back into the bowl. A thin coat cooks tender; a heavy coat hides the perilla.
Heat a wide nonstick or well-seasoned skillet over medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. Lay in the stuffed leaves without crowding. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on the first side, then turn and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the egg is pale golden, the leaf has darkened and turned slightly translucent, and the filling is cooked through. Add more oil in small spoonfuls between batches.
Move the finished jeon to a rack or a paper-lined plate in a single layer. Do not stack them while hot or the egg coating softens. Stir together the dipping sauce ingredients and serve the kkaennip-jeon warm, or at room temperature with rice and other banchan.
1 serving (about 155g)
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