
Chef Freja
Kryddersild
The spiced herring of the Danish julefrokost, cured for weeks in a brine of allspice and clove. Served cold on dark rugbrod with sour cream, raw red onion rings, and whole capers alongside.
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Created by Chef Freja
Pickled herring in a warm yellow curry dressing with apple and shallot, piled on buttered rugbrod and finished with egg and cress. A Copenhagen lunch counter classic, better the day after you make it.
Every Danish lunch table has a bowl of karrysild somewhere on it. At Easter it sits between the marinated herring and the smoked eel. At Christmas it shares the board with liver pate and pickled red cabbage. On a Tuesday in February it turns up at the frokostrestaurant in Copenhagen where office workers have been eating the same three pieces of smorrebrod for forty years. This dish doesn't belong to a season. It belongs to the lunch, and the Danish lunch belongs to every season.
Karrysild is pickled herring folded into a creamy curry dressing with apple and shallot, then piled on buttered rugbrod with slices of hard-boiled egg and a tuft of fresh cress on top. The flavor is cool and gently warm at once, the curry rounded and sweet rather than sharp, the fish silky against the dark bread. It's one of the easiest pieces of smorrebrod to make and one of the most satisfying, and the good news for the cook is that almost all the work happens the day before you serve it.
Pay attention to two things. First, toast the curry powder before it goes into the dressing. Thirty seconds in a dry pan and it wakes up completely. Raw curry powder tastes flat, and karrysild made with raw curry powder tastes flat with it. Second, let the salad rest. At least four hours, overnight if you can. Karrysild made and eaten in the same hour is three ingredients. Karrysild that has rested is one dish. The joy of waiting is real here, and you'll know when it's right the moment you taste a spoonful the next morning straight from the fridge.
Curry powder arrived in Denmark through the colonial spice trade in the late 1700s, when Danish ships were active in the Indian Ocean and returned to Copenhagen with turmeric, coriander, and cumin among their cargo. By the late 1800s, mild curry had become a quiet fixture of the Danish pantry, turning up in dishes like boller i karry and eventually in the herring preparations of the frokostrestaurant kitchens. Karrysild as it is eaten today, with apple and creme fraiche in the dressing, was codified in the early 20th century by the smorrebrodsjomfru, the formally trained women of the Danish cold kitchen, who added it to the standardized grammar of the herring course where it has remained ever since.
Quantity
250g
drained
Quantity
100g
Quantity
100g
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small
peeled and finely diced
Quantity
1 small
finely diced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
drained and roughly chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
Quantity
4 thick slices
Quantity
for the bread
softened
Quantity
2
peeled and sliced
Quantity
small handful
to finish
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| marinated pickled herring filletsdrained | 250g |
| mayonnaise | 100g |
| creme fraiche | 100g |
| mild curry powder | 2 teaspoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| caster sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| crisp tart applepeeled and finely diced | 1 small |
| shallotfinely diced | 1 small |
| capersdrained and roughly chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| white pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
| dark rugbrod | 4 thick slices |
| unsalted buttersoftened | for the bread |
| hard-boiled eggspeeled and sliced | 2 |
| fresh garden cressto finish | small handful |
Toast the curry powder in a dry pan over low heat for thirty seconds, just until it smells warm and fragrant. Tip it onto a cold plate immediately so it stops cooking. This is the step most recipes skip, and it's the one that makes the difference. Raw curry powder tastes flat and dusty. Toasted curry powder wakes up and tastes like something. The dressing is built around this, so do it properly.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, creme fraiche, toasted curry powder, Dijon mustard, and sugar until completely smooth. Taste it. It should be creamy, gently sweet, and warm with curry, not hot. Season with a pinch of salt and a turn of white pepper. The dressing needs to taste slightly more assertive than you'd serve on its own, because the herring will soften it once everything sits together.
Drain the herring fillets well and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Cut them into pieces roughly two centimetres across, bite-size but not too small. If the pieces are too fine they disappear into the dressing, and half the pleasure of karrysild is finding the fish.
Add the herring pieces, diced apple, shallot, and chopped capers to the dressing. Fold everything together gently with a rubber spatula. Don't stir roughly. The herring is delicate and you want the pieces whole, each one coated in yellow dressing, the apple and shallot visible as small flecks of white through it.
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least four hours, preferably overnight. This is not optional. Karrysild made and eaten immediately tastes like three separate things sitting next to each other. Karrysild that has rested tastes like one dish. The curry softens, the herring picks up the dressing, the apple surrenders a little of its sweetness. The joy of waiting is real here, and it's what turns a bowl of ingredients into a piece of smorrebrod worth making.
Spread each slice of rugbrod generously with softened butter, right to the edges. This is not a garnish, it's structural. The butter is the waterproof layer between the wet salad and the bread. Without it, the rugbrod turns soggy within minutes. Danish smorrebrod is built on buttered bread. Always. That's not a rule, it's the architecture.
Pile a generous spoonful of karrysild onto each slice of buttered rugbrod, mounding it slightly rather than spreading flat. Lay two or three slices of hard-boiled egg over the top, overlapping. Finish with a small tuft of fresh cress. Serve immediately, with a knife and fork, and a cold beer or a schnapps if the moment calls for it. Tak for mad.
1 serving (about 220g)
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