
Chef Isabel
Alubias de La Bañeza con Boletus
This León guiso pairs La Bañeza beans with wild boletus, a quiet autumn stew where the beans simmer gently and the mushrooms go in near the end, while they still have bite and perfume.
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Judías del Barco de Ávila are Castilian spoon food: fine-skinned white beans from Gredos, simmered gently with chorizo, pimentón, and a dark, sweet sofrito that lets the bean lead.
Judías del Barco de Ávila belong to Ávila, in Castile and León, and the dish is built around the bean itself: pale, fine-skinned, buttery when cooked well, never floury or rough. This is not fabada Asturiana with its heavy compango, and it is not a potaje thickened until the spoon stands up. It is a Castilian guiso, a bean stew, with chorizo, pimentón, and a sofrito, the slow onion base, cooked until it turns dark gold and sweet.
The method that decides it is the heat. Soak the beans overnight, start them in cold water, and once they come up, keep them at the barest tremble. A hard boil splits the skins and gives you a cloudy, broken broth. Low heat gives you whole beans with creamy insides and a broth that tastes of the bean first, then the chorizo and pimentón behind it.
If you are far from Ávila, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use a good dried white bean with a thin skin, cannellini first, Great Northern after that, and know what changes: the flavor will be less sweet and mineral than Judías del Barco, but the stew will still come out right if you respect the soak and the simmer. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
In the Margin beside this one I keep the same warning every year: do not rush the onion, and do not bully the beans. That is plain enough. Con buenos ingredientes y paciencia, this is the dish.
Judías del Barco de Ávila come from the Tormes valley and the slopes around the Sierra de Gredos, where cool nights, mountain water, and light granite soils shaped beans with unusually fine skins. The name covers several local types, including blanca riñón, redonda, arrocina, morada larga, and planchada, though the white beans are the ones most often used for this kind of guiso. In Castilian home cooking they belong to cocina de cuchara, spoon food: a way to turn dried legumes, a little cured pork, and a careful sofrito into a full meal for the table.
Quantity
500g
soaked overnight in plenty of cold water
Quantity
250g
cut into thick rounds
Quantity
150g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 medium, about 150g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 small, about 80g
finely diced
Quantity
3 cloves
finely chopped
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
12g
Quantity
1
soaked, flesh scraped
Quantity
1.8 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
10g, plus more to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried Judías del Barco de Ávilasoaked overnight in plenty of cold water | 500g |
| Spanish cooking chorizocut into thick rounds | 250g |
| panceta or tocino entreveradocut into 3cm pieces | 150g |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| onionfinely chopped | 1 medium, about 150g |
| carrotfinely diced | 1 small, about 80g |
| garlicfinely chopped | 3 cloves |
| extra virgin olive oil | 60ml |
| sweet pimentón de la Vera | 12g |
| dried ñora pepper (optional)soaked, flesh scraped | 1 |
| cold water | 1.8 litres, plus more as needed |
| fine sea salt | 10g, plus more to taste |
The night before, cover the dried Judías del Barco with at least three times their volume of cold water and leave them for 10 to 12 hours. Pésalo, no lo adivines: 500g dried beans is the right amount for six deep bowls. In the morning, drain them and discard the soaking water.
Put the drained beans in a wide heavy pot with the chorizo, panceta, bay leaf, and 1.8 litres cold water. Bring it up slowly over medium heat. Do not salt yet. Skim the grey foam that gathers on top during the first 10 minutes, then lower the heat until the surface barely trembles.
Cook the beans uncovered or half-covered at that bare tremble for about 1 hour, adding a small splash of cold water if the level drops below the beans. Do not stir hard with a spoon. Shake the pot by the handles now and then. These beans have fine skins, and a boil treats them badly.
While the beans soften, warm the olive oil in a frying pan over low heat. Add the onion, carrot, and a pinch of the measured salt, and cook slowly for 25 to 30 minutes until the onion is dark gold, soft, and jammy. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. This slow cook is where the sweetness comes from; rush it and the stew tastes thinner.
Pull the sofrito pan off the heat and stir in the pimentón, plus the scraped ñora flesh if using. Let it foam in the warm oil for 20 seconds, no more, then scrape the whole pan into the beans. Pimentón gives sweetness and smoke, but if it burns it turns bitter, and there is no fixing that politely.
Continue cooking at the same low tremble until the beans are tender all the way through, usually 45 to 75 minutes more depending on their age. Add the 10g salt only when the beans are nearly tender. The broth should be glossy and lightly thickened, not mashed. If you want more body, crush 2 tablespoons of beans against the side of the pot and stir them back in.
Turn off the heat and let the stew rest for 15 minutes. Taste for salt. Remove the bay leaf, divide the beans among deep bowls, and give each serving chorizo and panceta. A thread of olive oil is enough if the beans are good. Tal como se hace allí: simple, steady, and led by the bean.
1 serving (about 430g)
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