
Chef Dean
Amish White Bread
Pillowy soft sandwich bread from Pennsylvania Dutch kitchens, where generations of home bakers perfected the art of tender, slightly sweet loaves that slice clean and toast golden.
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Pillowy spiced rolls studded with currants and candied citrus, marked with pale flour crosses and brushed with honey glaze while still warm from the oven. Easter morning deserves this.
Hot cross buns arrived in England centuries before anyone thought to write down a recipe. Medieval monks baked them to mark Good Friday, the cross cut into the dough as devotion made edible. By the Tudor era, bakers faced fines for selling them outside of Easter week. The English took their buns seriously.
The dough itself is an enriched bread, softened with butter, eggs, and milk. It handles differently than lean doughs. The fat coats the gluten strands, making the crumb tender but also slowing the rise. Patience matters here. You'll need to give this dough time, and it will reward you with rolls that pull apart in soft, fragrant layers.
The spice blend is negotiable within tradition. I use cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice in modest proportion. The aromatics should whisper, not shout. The currants and candied peel provide enough punctuation. What isn't negotiable is the glaze. Brush it on while the buns are hot enough to make the honey sizzle slightly. This creates the characteristic tacky shine that makes your fingers stick together in the best possible way.
I've taught this recipe to students who swore they couldn't bake bread. By their third batch, they were adjusting the spices to their own taste and arguing about whether sultanas were acceptable substitutes. That's when I know the teaching has worked.
Quantity
500g (4 cups)
plus more for dusting
Quantity
7g (2¼ teaspoons)
Quantity
75g (⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon)
Quantity
8g (1½ teaspoons)
Quantity
1½ teaspoons
Quantity
½ teaspoon
Quantity
¼ teaspoon
Quantity
240ml (1 cup)
warmed to 110°F
Quantity
1
room temperature
Quantity
1
room temperature
Quantity
85g (6 tablespoons)
softened
Quantity
150g (1 cup)
Quantity
60g (⅓ cup)
chopped
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
75g (⅔ cup)
for crosses
Quantity
90ml (6 tablespoons)
for crosses
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for glaze
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for glaze
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bread flourplus more for dusting | 500g (4 cups) |
| instant yeast | 7g (2¼ teaspoons) |
| granulated sugar | 75g (⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon) |
| fine sea salt | 8g (1½ teaspoons) |
| ground cinnamon | 1½ teaspoons |
| ground nutmeg | ½ teaspoon |
| ground allspice | ¼ teaspoon |
| whole milkwarmed to 110°F | 240ml (1 cup) |
| large eggroom temperature | 1 |
| large egg yolkroom temperature | 1 |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 85g (6 tablespoons) |
| dried currants | 150g (1 cup) |
| candied mixed citrus peelchopped | 60g (⅓ cup) |
| orangezested | 1 |
| all-purpose flourfor crosses | 75g (⅔ cup) |
| waterfor crosses | 90ml (6 tablespoons) |
| honeyfor glaze | 3 tablespoons |
| hot waterfor glaze | 2 tablespoons |
Whisk together the bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice in a large mixing bowl. The spices should distribute evenly through the flour, creating a pale tan mixture flecked with darker specks. Make a well in the center.
Pour the warm milk into the well. Add the whole egg and egg yolk. Using a wooden spoon or your hand, begin stirring from the center outward, gradually incorporating flour into the liquid. Work until you have a shaggy, sticky mass that pulls away from the bowl sides. This takes about two minutes of vigorous stirring.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead with the heel of your hand, pushing the dough away from you, then folding it back over itself and rotating a quarter turn. The dough will be sticky at first. Resist adding too much flour. After about 8 minutes of steady kneading, it should become smooth and slightly tacky but no longer stick aggressively to your hands. When you poke it, the indentation should slowly spring back.
Flatten the dough slightly and add the softened butter in three additions. Knead after each addition until the butter is absorbed. The dough will become slick and seem to fall apart momentarily. Keep working it. After another 4 to 5 minutes, you'll have a smooth, supple dough with a satiny sheen. It should pass the windowpane test: stretch a small piece thin enough to see light through without tearing.
Scatter the currants, candied peel, and orange zest over the dough. Knead gently to distribute, folding and pressing rather than aggressive stretching. Some fruit will try to escape. Push it back in. The dough is ready when the fruit appears evenly throughout and no bare patches remain.
Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl, turning once to coat. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel. Set in a warm spot (75 to 80°F) until doubled in size, about 1½ to 2 hours. The dough is ready when a floured finger pressed into the surface leaves an indentation that holds rather than springs back.
Line a 9 by 13 inch baking pan with parchment paper. Gently deflate the risen dough and turn it onto a clean surface. Divide into 12 equal portions (about 85g each if you have a scale). Shape each piece by cupping your hand over it and rolling in a circular motion against the counter until you have a taut ball with a smooth top. Arrange in the prepared pan, four rows of three, spacing evenly. They should nearly touch.
Cover the pan loosely with plastic wrap or a clean towel. Let rise in a warm place until the buns have puffed significantly and are pressing against each other, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. They should look pillowy and jiggle slightly when the pan is gently shaken. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 400°F (200°C).
Whisk together the all-purpose flour and water in a small bowl until completely smooth. The consistency should be like thick pancake batter, just pourable but not runny. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip, or use a zip-lock bag with a corner snipped off. The opening should be about ¼ inch wide.
Working with a steady hand, pipe a continuous line of paste across each row of buns, then pipe lines in the perpendicular direction to create crosses. Don't worry about perfection. Slight wobbles give character. The paste should sit on top of the dough, not sink in. If it sinks, your buns may have overproofed slightly.
Place the pan in the center of the preheated oven. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, until the tops are deep golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 190°F. The kitchen will smell of warm spice and toasted bread. The crosses should be pale against the bronzed dough. If the tops brown too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the final minutes.
While the buns bake, stir together the honey and hot water until the honey dissolves completely. The moment the buns come out of the oven, brush this glaze generously over the hot tops. You'll hear a faint sizzle. The glaze will soak in slightly, leaving a glossy, slightly sticky finish. Let the buns cool in the pan for 10 minutes before serving warm, or transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
1 serving (about 87g)
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