Heirloom Bean Chili with Garden Vegetables

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (6-quart minimum)
• •Large bowl for soaking beans
• •Wooden spoon
• •Ladle

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the beans

   Cover the beans with cold water by three inches in a large bowl. Leave them on the counter overnight, or for at least eight hours. The beans will swell and soften, and your cooking time will reward you. Drain and rinse before cooking.

   Fresh beans from this year's harvest may cook faster than older beans. Taste early and often.
2. 2

   Cook the beans until nearly tender

   Place the soaked beans in a large pot and cover with fresh water by two inches. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cook until the beans are nearly tender but still hold their shape, about forty-five minutes to one hour. They will finish cooking in the chili. Drain and set aside, reserving one cup of the cooking liquid.

   Do not salt the beans while cooking. Salt toughens the skins. Wait until they join the chili.
3. 3

   Build the aromatic base

   Warm the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about five minutes. The kitchen will begin to smell like something good is happening. Add the garlic and cook for one minute more, until fragrant.

4. 4

   Add the vegetables

   Stir in the carrots, celery, poblanos, red bell pepper, and jalapeño. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften and release their moisture, about eight minutes. Do not rush this step. The vegetables should have some life left in them, not collapse into mush.

5. 5

   Toast the spices

   Add the chili powder, cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and coriander. Stir constantly for one minute, letting the spices bloom in the oil. You will smell the warmth immediately. This toasting deepens the flavor in ways that adding raw spices cannot.

6. 6

   Add tomatoes and stock

   Pour in the crushed tomatoes with their juices. Add the stock and bay leaves. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low. The liquid should bubble lazily, not boil vigorously. A hard boil breaks down the beans and makes the chili cloudy.

7. 7

   Simmer with the beans

   Add the par-cooked beans and one tablespoon of salt. Stir gently. Simmer uncovered for one hour to one hour and fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beans are creamy and tender and the liquid has thickened slightly. If the chili becomes too thick, add some of the reserved bean cooking liquid.

   The chili should coat a spoon but still have body. It thickens as it cools, so err on the side of loose.
8. 8

   Taste and finish

   Remove the bay leaves. Taste the chili. Adjust salt and pepper. The flavors should be balanced, the spices warm but not aggressive, the beans the clear star. Ladle into bowls, scatter with cilantro, and serve with lime wedges. A squeeze of lime at the table brightens everything.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out beans from Rancho Gordo or your local farmers market. The difference between fresh heirloom beans and supermarket beans is the difference between a garden tomato and a January import. It is not subtle.
• •Make your own stock if you can. A simple vegetable stock from onion trimmings, carrot peels, and celery leaves simmered for an hour will transform this chili. Water works, but you lose depth.
• •In winter, roasted butternut squash makes a beautiful addition. Cut it into cubes and add during the last thirty minutes of cooking. The sweetness plays well against the warm spices.
• •This chili improves with time. If you can make it a day ahead, the flavors marry and deepen overnight. Reheat gently, adding a splash of water if needed.
• •Skip the canned beans entirely if you have good dried ones. The texture is incomparable. If you must use canned, drain and rinse them, and add during the last twenty minutes of cooking.

Advance Preparation

• •Beans can be soaked overnight and drained, ready to cook the next morning.
• •The complete chili keeps refrigerated for up to five days. The flavor improves after the first day.
• •Freeze in portions for up to three months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and reheat gently on the stovetop, adding water as needed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 365g)