
Chef Dean
Amish Buttered Egg Noodles
The humblest side dish in the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition, where wide egg noodles and good butter need nothing more than salt and a warm bowl to become the thing everyone remembers from the church supper.
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The Thanksgiving side dish that conquered America, made properly with a velvety from-scratch mushroom sauce and a shatteringly crisp onion crown that elevates this 1955 classic to something worth fighting over.
This casserole was invented in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly in the Campbell's Soup Company test kitchen in Camden, New Jersey. She created it to sell cream of mushroom soup. What she actually created was an American institution. More than 40 million households serve this dish at Thanksgiving. That's not an accident. That's a recipe that works.
I'll be honest with you. I spent years dismissing green bean casserole as cafeteria food, the kind of thing made by people who didn't know better. I was wrong. When you build the sauce from scratch, when you blanch your beans properly, when you take the time to fry your own onions until they shatter at the touch, this humble casserole becomes something genuinely delicious. It deserves the same respect I'd give any French gratin.
The version I'm teaching you here honors the original architecture while improving the materials. Fresh mushrooms instead of canned soup. Beans with actual texture instead of army-green mush. Onions fried until golden and honest, not dusty from a canister. Your grandmother might not recognize it at first glance, but she'd recognize it at first bite.
For Thanksgiving, this casserole is a gift. Nearly everything can be done ahead. The sauce holds for days. The beans blanch in minutes. Only the onions demand last-minute attention, and even those can be fried the morning of and crisped in the oven. This is a dish designed for the chaos of holiday cooking.
Quantity
2 pounds
trimmed
Quantity
1 pound
sliced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
for frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh green beanstrimmed | 2 pounds |
| cremini mushroomssliced | 1 pound |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| all-purpose flour | 3 tablespoons |
| chicken stock | 2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| soy sauce | 2 teaspoons |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/2 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| yellow onions | 2 large |
| all-purpose flour for dredging | 1 cup |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| vegetable oil | for frying |
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil. It should taste like the sea. Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set it nearby. Add the trimmed green beans to the boiling water and cook for exactly 4 minutes. They should turn vivid green and retain a slight snap when you bite one. Drain immediately and plunge into the ice bath. This stops the cooking cold. Leave them in the ice water for 3 minutes, then drain thoroughly and spread on a kitchen towel to dry. Wet beans make watery casserole.
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over high heat. When the foam subsides, add half the sliced mushrooms in a single layer. Don't stir. Let them sit undisturbed for 2 minutes until they develop golden brown color on the bottom. Stir once, cook another minute, then transfer to a bowl. Repeat with another tablespoon of butter and the remaining mushrooms. Crowded mushrooms steam instead of sear. Work in batches. Season the cooked mushrooms with a pinch of salt.
In the same skillet over medium heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the flour and whisk constantly for 2 minutes. The raw flour smell will fade and the mixture will turn slightly golden. This is your roux. Gradually pour in the chicken stock while whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. The sauce will seize up initially, then smooth out. Keep whisking. Add the cream in a steady stream, still whisking. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 minutes until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Stir in the soy sauce and nutmeg. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. The sauce should be savory and rich with a subtle earthiness from the nutmeg.
Slice the onions into thin rings, about 1/8 inch thick. Separate them into individual rings. In a shallow bowl, combine 1 cup flour with the cayenne and a generous teaspoon of salt. Pour vegetable oil into a heavy pot or Dutch oven to a depth of 2 inches. Heat to 375 degrees. Use a thermometer. Dredge handfuls of onion rings in the seasoned flour, shake off excess, and fry in batches until deep golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch. Transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan and season with a pinch more salt while still hot. They should be crisp enough to shatter when you bite them.
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Fold the seared mushrooms into the cream sauce. Add the blanched green beans and stir gently until every bean is coated. Pour into a 9x13 inch baking dish or a 3-quart gratin dish. The mixture should come within half an inch of the rim. Smooth the top with a spatula.
Place the casserole on a sheet pan to catch any drips. Bake uncovered for 25 minutes. The sauce should be bubbling vigorously around the edges and the surface will look slightly set. Remove from oven.
Scatter the fried onions generously over the top. Don't be timid. The onions are half the point. Return to the oven for 10 more minutes until the onions are deeply golden and the sauce is bubbling through in places. The kitchen will smell like Thanksgiving.
Let the casserole rest for 5 minutes before serving. This allows the sauce to thicken slightly and prevents burns from molten cream. Serve family-style directly from the baking dish with a large spoon. Each portion should include a generous pile of those crispy onions.
1 serving (about 340g)
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