
Chef Lupita
Cecina Potosina con Frijoles y Huevo
San Luis Potosí's dry-country breakfast: thin salted beef cured overnight, flashed on the comal, served with frijoles bayos refritos and a lacy-edged huevo estrellado.
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San Luis Potosi's morning gorditas are thick masa rounds enriched with manteca, baked until the edges toast, then split for chicharron prensado in chile ancho, beans with epazote, or queso fresco.
San Luis Potosi, the capital and the road north toward the Altiplano, is where these gorditas de horno belong. They are morning food from panaderias and mercado counters: thick corn masa rounds baked hot, split open, and filled with whatever the cook made before the sun got high. Chicharron prensado in chile ancho. Frijoles bayos with epazote. Queso fresco wrapped in the heat of the masa. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
This is not the fried gordita from another state and it is not a flour tortilla situation. Flour tortillas have their northern place. Here the base is nixtamalized corn masa, manteca de cerdo, salt, and a hot oven. The women who perfected this know the oven floor by the smell of toasted corn and the color of the edge, not because an app told them. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo.
I learned this version from a senora near the Mercado Hidalgo in San Luis Potosi who kept the baked gorditas under a cotton servilleta and opened them with a knife so thin it looked like it had worked harder than most people. My mother would have approved of the economy: one masa, three fillings, breakfast for a table, nothing wasted. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
San Luis Potosi's capital was formally founded in 1592 around the silver mines of Cerro de San Pedro, where Spanish masonry ovens entered a region already built on nixtamalized corn. Gorditas de horno come from that meeting of technologies: Indigenous corn masa shaped thick, then baked in bread ovens instead of fried. In the capital and nearby market towns, the phrase de horno distinguishes them from comal-cooked or fried gorditas, and breakfast vendors still split them for chicharron, beans, or queso according to the morning guisos.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
Quantity
1/3 cup
softened, plus more for greasing hands
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 to 1/2 cup
as needed
Quantity
3
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2
charred on a comal
Quantity
1/2 medium
divided
Quantity
2
unpeeled and charred
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
8 ounces
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cups
with 1/2 cup cooking liquid
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
8 ounces
crumbled
Quantity
1 cup
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh nixtamalized corn masa for tortillas | 1 1/2 pounds |
| manteca de cerdosoftened, plus more for greasing hands | 1/3 cup |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| warm wateras needed | 1/4 to 1/2 cup |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 3 |
| dried chile guajillostemmed and seeded | 1 |
| Roma tomatoescharred on a comal | 2 |
| white oniondivided | 1/2 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled and charred | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/4 teaspoon |
| manteca de cerdo for chicharron filling | 1 tablespoon |
| chicharron prensadofinely chopped | 8 ounces |
| cooked frijol bayo or flor de mayo beanswith 1/2 cup cooking liquid | 2 cups |
| fresh epazote sprig | 1 |
| manteca de cerdo for beans | 2 tablespoons |
| queso fresco or queso rancherocrumbled | 8 ounces |
| salsa roja de chile de arbol or chile cascabel (optional)for serving | 1 cup |
| diced raw white onion (optional) | for serving |
| chopped cilantro (optional) | for serving |
Set a baking stone, baking steel, or heavy upside-down sheet pan in the middle of the oven and heat to 500F for at least 30 minutes. If you have a wood-fired horno de barro, bake after the flames have died and the floor is fiercely hot. These gorditas need a hard first blast so the masa sets outside and stays tender inside.
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile ancho and chile guajillo separately, about 20 to 30 seconds per side, just until they darken slightly and smell deep. Do not blacken them. The ancho brings the dark fruit flavor that belongs in the chicharron, and the guajillo gives clean red color.
Cover the toasted chiles with hot water and let them soften for 15 minutes. Drain them. Blend with the charred tomatoes, one quarter of the onion, the peeled charred garlic, Mexican oregano, cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup fresh water until smooth. Strain if your blender leaves skins behind. The sauce should be brick red and thick enough to coat a spoon.
Finely chop the remaining onion. Melt 1 tablespoon manteca in a skillet over medium heat and cook half the chopped onion until translucent. Add the chile salsa and fry it for 5 minutes, stirring, until the color deepens and the fat starts to show at the edges. Add the chicharron prensado and cook 8 to 10 minutes more, until the filling is thick and glossy. Taste before salting. Chicharron already carries salt.
In another skillet, melt 2 tablespoons manteca over medium heat. Add the rest of the chopped onion and cook until soft. Add the frijoles bayos or flor de mayo with their cooking liquid and the epazote sprig. Mash with a wooden spoon until thick and spreadable, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the epazote. The beans should hold inside the gordita, not run out onto the plate.
In a wide bowl, knead the fresh masa with the softened manteca, salt, and baking powder. Add warm water a tablespoon at a time until the dough feels soft, smooth, and alive under your hands, not cracked and not sticky. Cover with a damp towel and rest 15 minutes. The rest matters. Masa that has not rested fights you.
Divide the masa into 12 equal balls. Grease your palms lightly with manteca and pat each ball into a round about 3 1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Do not press them thin like tortillas. A gordita needs enough body to split after baking. Smooth any cracked edges with damp fingers.
Slide the masa rounds onto the hot stone or sheet pan, leaving space between them. Bake 8 minutes, flip carefully, and bake 5 to 7 minutes more, until the surfaces look dry, the edges show toasted brown freckles, and each gordita feels light for its size. If the bottoms brown too fast, move them to a cooler part of the oven. The center should be cooked through, never gummy.
Wrap the baked gorditas in a clean cotton servilleta for 5 minutes so they soften enough to open. With a small sharp knife, split each gordita along one side without cutting all the way through. Fill some with chile ancho chicharron, some with epazote beans, and some with queso fresco. Be generous, but do not tear the pocket.
Set the gorditas on a barro plate with salsa roja de chile de arbol or chile cascabel, diced raw white onion, and cilantro at the table. Cafe de olla belongs beside them. Eat them while the masa is still tender and the fillings are warm. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 350g)
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