
Chef Klaus
Apfelschorle
Cloudy apple juice, sharp mineral water, and no sugar bowl: the German Schorle that belongs in school bags, beer gardens, picnic baskets, and the table when supper is quick.
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The Christmas-market warmer done at home with real wine, whole spice, and one hard rule: warm it gently, because boiled Glühwein is ruined wine.
Glühwein belongs to Advent and the Christmas market, but it shouldn't taste like a stall rinsed out at closing time. I make it at home with a decent dry red wine, orange peel, cinnamon, clove, and just enough sugar to pull the spice together. Nicht aus dem Glas. The bought bottle and the packet mix give you sweetness first and wine last, which is the wrong order.
Every region has its argument. The south often wants a round red from Baden or Württemberg, full enough to carry cinnamon and clove. Along the Mosel, Rheingau, and in Franconia, white Glühwein with Riesling or Silvaner has its place, brighter and sharper. At the market one cup may get a shot of rum, another a cherry liqueur, and somebody will try to call all of it the only proper way. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.
The rule is simple: keep it below a simmer. Runter mit der Temperatur. Boiling drives off the alcohol, drags bitterness from the citrus pith, and makes the wine taste cooked and thin. Warm it slowly, let the spices sit, then taste at the end because sugar hides badly in hot wine until suddenly it doesn't.
Use whole spices, not powder. Powder muddies the drink and catches in the cup; whole spice scents the wine and can be lifted out. Das braucht seine Zeit, but not much. Half an hour of patient heat is enough.
Spiced hot wine has been recorded in German-speaking lands since the medieval period, when wine was warmed with costly imported spices such as cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg. The modern Christmas-market version became strongly tied to Advent fairs, with the Dresden Striezelmarkt, first recorded in 1434, among the oldest markets where winter sweets and hot drinks helped define the season. Regional versions still split by wine country: red Glühwein dominates most markets, while Riesling and Silvaner regions have kept white Glühwein in serious use.
Quantity
750ml
Spätburgunder, Dornfelder, or Trollinger
Quantity
1
peeled in wide strips and juiced
Quantity
2 wide strips
Quantity
2
Quantity
6
Quantity
3
lightly crushed
Quantity
1
Quantity
60g
plus more to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
60ml
added off the heat
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dry red wineSpätburgunder, Dornfelder, or Trollinger | 750ml |
| untreated orangepeeled in wide strips and juiced | 1 |
| untreated lemon peel | 2 wide strips |
| cinnamon sticks | 2 |
| whole cloves | 6 |
| allspice berrieslightly crushed | 3 |
| star anise (optional) | 1 |
| sugarplus more to taste | 60g |
| honey (optional) | 2 tablespoons |
| dark rum or cherry brandy (optional)added off the heat | 60ml |
Peel the orange and lemon in wide strips, taking as little white pith as you can. The coloured zest gives oil and fragrance; the white pith gives bitterness, and hot wine pulls that bitterness out quickly. Juice the orange and keep it ready.
Pour the wine into a heavy saucepan with the orange juice, citrus peel, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, star anise if using, sugar, and honey if using. Set it over low heat and bring it only until the surface trembles at the edge, never to a boil. Boiling drives off the alcohol and cooks the wine flat, so the whole drink depends on holding the heat back.
Cover the pot and let the wine sit on the lowest heat for 20 to 30 minutes, still below a simmer. Whole spices need time to scent the wine, and they stay clean where ground spice turns the drink gritty. Taste after 20 minutes; if the clove is getting loud, lift the spices out.
Strain out the peel and spices, then taste the Glühwein before it goes to the mugs. Hot wine hides sugar at first, so add sweetness in small spoonfuls and stop while it still tastes like wine. If you're adding rum or cherry brandy, stir it in off the heat so it keeps its lift instead of boiling away.
Ladle into thick-walled mugs and add a fresh orange slice only if you want one. Don't leave the pot cooking all evening; hold it on the lowest heat or in an insulated jug, because even gentle wine gets tired if it sits too long. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
1 serving (about 145g)
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