
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Towering golden biscuits with layers that shatter and pull apart in buttery sheets. The kind your grandmother made if she knew her way around a flour bin and a cold stick of butter.
The Southern biscuit is an act of faith. You combine flour, fat, and buttermilk with as little handling as possible, then trust the oven to do its work. There's no yeast. No rising time. No second chances. What emerges in fifteen minutes is either tall and flaky or dense as a hockey puck. The difference comes down to temperature and touch.
Cold butter is non-negotiable. The moment those fat chunks hit the hot oven, they release steam that forces the layers apart. Warm butter simply melts into the flour and produces something more like a scone. A good scone, perhaps, but not a proper biscuit. Keep everything cold: the butter, the buttermilk, even the bowl if you can manage it.
I learned biscuit making from a woman in Charleston who could produce a perfect batch while holding a conversation about absolutely anything else. Her hands moved from memory. She never measured the buttermilk, just poured until the dough looked right. That intuition takes years to develop. Until then, follow these proportions exactly. They work.
The technique matters more than the recipe. Fold the dough, don't knead it. Cut straight down with your cutter, never twist. Nestle them close together in the pan so they push each other upward as they rise. These details separate restaurant-quality biscuits from the sad, squat specimens that disappoint so many home cooks.
Quantity
2 1/2 cups, plus more for dusting
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
8 tablespoons (1 stick)
cold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons
cold
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for brushing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 2 1/2 cups, plus more for dusting |
| baking powder | 1 tablespoon |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| unsalted buttercold, cut into 1/2-inch cubes | 8 tablespoons (1 stick) |
| buttermilkcold | 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons |
| melted butterfor brushing | 2 tablespoons |
Position a rack in the upper third of your oven and preheat to 450°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or use an ungreased cast iron skillet. The high heat is essential: it creates the initial burst of steam that lifts those layers.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Make sure the leaveners are evenly distributed. Clumps of baking powder create bitter spots in your finished biscuits.
Add the cold butter cubes to the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender, two knives, or your fingertips, work the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal with some pea-sized chunks remaining. You should see distinct butter pieces. They're responsible for the layers. Work quickly so your hands don't warm the butter.
Create a well in the center of the flour mixture. Pour in the cold buttermilk all at once. Stir with a fork just until the dough comes together in shaggy clumps. It will look rough and slightly dry. This is correct. Overworking develops gluten and produces tough biscuits. The moment the flour is hydrated, stop stirring.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Pat it into a rectangle about 1 inch thick. Fold the dough in thirds like a business letter. Rotate it 90 degrees and pat it out again. Repeat this folding process three more times. These folds create the layers. You'll feel the dough become smoother with each fold, but resist the urge to keep going. Four folds is enough.
Pat the dough into a final rectangle about 3/4 inch thick. Using a sharp 2 1/2-inch round cutter dipped in flour, cut straight down without twisting. Twisting seals the edges and prevents proper rising. Gather the scraps gently, pat them together, and cut remaining biscuits. These second-cut biscuits won't rise quite as tall, but they'll still be delicious.
Place the biscuits on your prepared pan with sides touching. When biscuits bake in contact with each other, they support one another and rise upward rather than spreading outward. The edges will pull apart easily after baking.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. The biscuits are done when the tops are deep golden brown and the sides look set. Don't pull them early. Pale biscuits are underbaked biscuits, and underbaked biscuits are gummy inside. Trust the color.
Remove from the oven and immediately brush the tops with melted butter. The butter soaks into the crust while it's still porous from the heat. Serve within 20 minutes if possible. A fresh biscuit is a fleeting pleasure. They're still good later, but neverquite as good as right now.
1 biscuit (about 48g)
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