
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Ridged ziti tubes cradling a slow-simmered meat sauce, layered with creamy ricotta and buried under a blanket of molten mozzarella that blisters golden in the oven. This is the dish that ends arguments and fills bellies.
Every Italian-American family claims theirs is the definitive baked ziti. They're all correct. This is not a dish that demands orthodoxy. It demands generosity. Generous layers of meat sauce that's simmered long enough to meld. Generous dollops of ricotta lightened with egg and fresh herbs. Generous handfuls of mozzarella that pull into those satisfying strings when you serve it.
The origins trace back to Southern Italian immigrants who arrived in America and discovered something remarkable: affordable beef. Back home, meat was precious, rationed into sauces a few ounces at a time. Here, they could build a proper ragù, rich with ground beef and sweet Italian sausage, simmered until the tomatoes surrendered their acidity and turned sweet.
I've made this dish for crowds of forty and for Tuesday night suppers of two. The method doesn't change. You build your sauce with patience, letting it bubble gently while you handle the rest. You mix your ricotta with egg so it sets rather than weeps. You slightly undercook your pasta because it finishes in the oven. These aren't fussy steps. They're the difference between a dish that's merely good and one that becomes the reason people accept your dinner invitations.
This improves overnight. Make it Saturday, refrigerate it, bake it Sunday. The flavors deepen. The layers bind. Your only job on serving day is sliding it into the oven and accepting compliments.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 pound
casings removed
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
6 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 cans (28 oz each)
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 pounds
Quantity
2
beaten
Quantity
1/2 cup
chopped
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped
Quantity
1 pound
shredded
Quantity
8 ounces
sliced
Quantity
1 cup
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| ziti or penne rigate | 1 pound |
| ground beef (80/20) | 1 pound |
| sweet Italian sausagecasings removed | 1 pound |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 6 cloves |
| dry red wine | 1 cup |
| crushed tomatoes | 2 cans (28 oz each) |
| tomato paste | 3 tablespoons |
| dried oregano | 2 teaspoons |
| dried basil | 1 teaspoon |
| red pepper flakes | 1/2 teaspoon |
| whole milk ricotta | 2 pounds |
| large eggsbeaten | 2 |
| fresh Italian parsleychopped | 1/2 cup |
| fresh basilchopped | 1/4 cup |
| low-moisture mozzarellashredded | 1 pound |
| fresh mozzarellasliced | 8 ounces |
| Parmesan cheesefreshly grated | 1 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and crumbled sausage, breaking them apart with a wooden spoon. Let the meat sit undisturbed for 2 minutes to develop a proper sear before stirring. Continue cooking until deeply browned and no pink remains, about 10 minutes total. You want color here. Color means flavor. Transfer meat to a bowl, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.
Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion to the pot and cook in the rendered fat until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. The onion will pick up all those browned bits from the meat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes, stirring constantly for 60 seconds until fragrant. You'll smell it shift from raw and sharp to sweet and mellow.
Pour in the red wine and scrape up any fond clinging to the bottom of the pot. Let it bubble and reduce by half, about 3 minutes. Return the browned meat to the pot. Stir in the tomato paste, coating everything in that concentrated sweetness. Add the crushed tomatoes, dried oregano, and dried basil. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low. Let the sauce bubble gently, uncovered, for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. It should thicken noticeably and the raw tomato taste should disappear entirely.
While the sauce simmers, combine the ricotta, beaten eggs, half the Parmesan, all the fresh parsley, and all the fresh basil in a large bowl. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Mix until thoroughly combined. The eggs will help the ricotta set during baking rather than weeping into watery puddles. This is non-negotiable.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. It should taste like the sea. Cook the ziti for 2 minutes less than the package directs. You want it notably firm, almost chalky in the center. It will finish cooking in the oven and absorb sauce as it bakes. Drain well but don't rinse. A little starch helps everything bind.
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Spread 1 cup of meat sauce across the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish. Layer half the cooked ziti over the sauce. Drop spoonfuls of half the ricotta mixture over the pasta and spread gently. You don't need perfection here. Scatter half the shredded mozzarella over the ricotta. Ladle half the remaining meat sauce over everything. Repeat: remaining pasta, remaining ricotta, remaining shredded mozzarella, remaining meat sauce. Top with the fresh mozzarella slices and the remaining Parmesan.
Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the top is golden brown and bubbling aggressively at the edges, another 20 to 25 minutes. The fresh mozzarella should have browned spots and the sauce should be visibly percolating through any gaps in the cheese. If you want a more dramatic char, run it under the broiler for 2 minutes, watching constantly.
This is critical: let the ziti rest for 15 minutes before serving. I know it's difficult. The smell is extraordinary. But those 15 minutes allow the layers to set. When you cut into it, the portions will hold their shape rather than collapsing into a formless heap. Serve with extra Parmesan at the table and crusty bread to mop up the sauce.
1 serving (about 260g)
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