Flädlesuppe

Flädlesuppe belongs to Swabia and Baden first: clear broth, thin pancakes cut into ribbons, chives on top, nothing hiding. It sits on the table as a Sunday starter when the stockpot has done its work, and just as well on a weeknight when yesterday's pancakes are waiting. In Austria and Bavaria they say Frittatensuppe; in Baden and Swabia, Flädlesuppe. Same family, different kitchen. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.

The disagreement is usually the broth. Some cooks will make it from beef bones and soup meat, some lighter from chicken or vegetables, but the southern plate wants a clear, strong broth that tastes like bones, onion, leek, and time. Nicht aus dem Glas. A stock cube gives salt and brown water. Bones give body, and the little bit of fat on top carries the flavour.

The technique that decides it is simple: the pancake ribbons go into the hot broth at the last moment, never boiled in it. Boil them and they swell, tear, and cloud the soup. Warm them through and they stay silky, with clean edges and a little bite. The broth must shimmer, not roll hard. Runter mit der Temperatur.

I cut the Flädle thin, about the width of a little finger, and put them into warmed bowls before the broth goes over. That way the soup stays clear and the ribbons keep their shape. Chives at the end. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.