Feast of Seven Fishes Baccalà

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large braiser or 6-quart Dutch oven with lid
• •Large container for soaking (at least 4 quarts)
• •Fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers for pin bones
• •Wooden spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the salt cod

   Begin this process two days before you plan to serve. Place the salt cod in a large container and cover with cold water by at least three inches. Refrigerate. Every eight hours, drain the water completely and replace with fresh cold water. The fish will soften and swell as it releases its salt. After 48 hours, taste a small piece from the thickest section. It should taste pleasantly seasoned, not aggressively salty. If it's still too salty, continue soaking for another 12 hours.

   Don't skip the soaking or try to rush it. Undersalted cod from the market still needs at least 24 hours. Bone-dry, heavily salted pieces from Italian specialty stores need the full 48 hours. Trust the process.
2. 2

   Prepare the fish

   Drain the soaked cod and pat it thoroughly dry with paper towels. Run your fingers along the flesh to check for any remaining pin bones and remove them with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Cut the cod into pieces roughly three inches square. Don't worry about perfect uniformity. The fish will flake naturally during braising. Set aside at room temperature while you build the sauce.

3. 3

   Build the aromatic base

   Heat the olive oil in a large braiser or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil shimmers and flows easily across the pan, add the sliced onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns translucent and begins to soften, about 8 minutes. You want sweetness here, not color. Add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes. Stir constantly for 60 seconds until the garlic turns fragrant but hasn't taken on any brown. The kitchen should smell like every Italian grandmother's house you've ever visited.

   Slice your garlic thin rather than mincing. Thin slices melt into the sauce during braising. Minced garlic can turn bitter and gritty.
4. 4

   Deglaze and add tomatoes

   Pour in the white wine and let it bubble vigorously, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce by half, about 3 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes and bay leaves. Stir well, bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low. Let the sauce cook uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. It should thicken slightly and the raw tomato taste should mellow into something sweeter and more complex.

   Crush the tomatoes by hand directly into the pan. This gives you better texture than machine-crushed and lets you feel for any tough cores to discard.
5. 5

   Braise the cod

   Nestle the cod pieces into the sauce in a single layer. Spoon some sauce over the top of each piece. The fish should be mostly submerged but not swimming. Cover the pot and reduce heat to low. Braise gently for 25 to 30 minutes. Do not stir. The cod is delicate and will flake apart if disturbed. You'll know it's done when a fork slides through the thickest piece with no resistance and the flesh has turned from translucent to opaque white throughout.

6. 6

   Finish with olives and capers

   Remove the lid. Scatter the olives and capers over and around the fish. Gently spoon sauce over them to warm through. Simmer uncovered for 5 more minutes. The olives should heat through and the sauce should tighten just slightly. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning. You likely won't need salt (the cod and capers provide plenty), but black pepper and perhaps another pinch of red pepper flakes may be welcome.

   Gaeta olives are traditional here, small and wine-cured with a mellow flavor. Kalamata olives work beautifully too. Avoid canned black olives, which have no character.
7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Remove the pot from heat and discard the bay leaves. Let the baccalà rest for 10 minutes before serving. This resting period allows the sauce to settle around the fish and the flavors to marry. Transfer to a warmed serving platter or bring the braiser directly to the table. Scatter the fresh parsley generously over the top and drizzle with your best extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with thick slices of crusty bread for soaking up the sauce. This is mandatory, not optional.

Chef Tips

• •Salt cod quality varies dramatically. Seek out thick, bone-in center cuts from Italian or Portuguese specialty stores. The thin tail pieces cook unevenly and aren't worth your time. If your fishmonger sells both, pay more for the premium cuts.
• •This dish tastes even better the next day. Make it Christmas Eve morning, let it cool, refrigerate, and reheat gently before dinner. The flavors deepen overnight and the fish absorbs more of the tomato's sweetness.
• •Serve this as part of a proper Feast of Seven Fishes spread: fried smelts, shrimp scampi, stuffed calamari, linguine with clam sauce, and a simple broiled fish to round out the offerings. One dish does not a feast make.
• •A sturdy Sicilian white wine, like Grillo or Catarratto, holds up to the tomatoes and brine. If you prefer red, a light Nero d'Avola served slightly cool won't overpower the fish.
• •Save any leftover sauce. Tossed with spaghetti the next day with a bit of pasta water and fresh parsley, it becomes an entirely new meal.

Advance Preparation

• •Salt cod must begin soaking 48 hours before serving. This is non-negotiable for proper texture and seasoning. Mark your calendar.
• •The entire dish can be prepared through step 6 up to one day ahead. Cool completely, refrigerate covered, and reheat gently over low heat, adding a splash of water if the sauce has thickened too much.
• •The tomato sauce base (through step 4, before adding fish) can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Bring to a simmer before adding the cod.
• •Olives can be pitted and capers rinsed up to 2 days ahead. Store separately in the refrigerator.
• •Parsley should be chopped within a few hours of serving for the brightest color and freshest flavor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 225g)