
Chef Graziella
Asparagi al Forno con Parmigiano
Roasted asparagus finished with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the same region that grows the best spears. Four ingredients. No complications. Nothing to hide behind.
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The peasant dish of Puglia where creamy dried fava beans meet bitter wild chicory, proving that poverty creates genius when you understand the poetry of contrast.
In Puglia, this is not a recipe. It is a birthright. Every home cook knows the proportions by instinct, learned at their mother's elbow, who learned at her mother's elbow, back through generations of contadini who understood that the humblest ingredients, prepared with patience, create food that no restaurant can equal.
The dried fava bean puree must be silky, almost ethereal, pale and mild. The chicory must be aggressively bitter, dark green, barely tamed by a quick sauté in good olive oil. You eat them together, the sweetness of the beans tempering the bitterness of the greens, the bitterness of the greens cutting through the richness of the beans. Neither is complete without the other. This is the genius of peasant cooking: balance through contrast, not through addition.
Americans want to add garlic, red pepper flakes, lemon juice. They cannot leave well enough alone. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in. The favas want only olive oil and salt. The chicory wants the same. Trust the ingredients to do their work.
Fave e cicoria has fed the peasants of Puglia since antiquity, when dried favas were among the few proteins available to those who worked the land. The Romans ate variations of this dish, and the pairing survived because it is nutritionally complete and requires only what grows freely in the Puglian countryside. Wild chicory, gathered from the fields, cost nothing at all.
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 medium
halved
Quantity
2 pounds
Quantity
6 tablespoons, divided, plus more for serving
Quantity
2
lightly crushed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried split fava beans | 1 pound |
| yellow onionhalved | 1 medium |
| chicory or dandelion greens | 2 pounds |
| extra virgin olive oil | 6 tablespoons, divided, plus more for serving |
| garlic cloveslightly crushed | 2 |
| kosher salt | to taste |
Rinse the dried split fava beans under cold water. Place them in a heavy pot and cover with cold water by three inches. Add the halved onion. Do not add salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce to the gentlest bubble. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally and adding water as needed to keep the beans submerged, until the favas have completely fallen apart into a puree. This takes 60 to 90 minutes. There is no shortcut.
When the favas have dissolved into a thick, creamy mass, remove and discard the onion. Beat the puree vigorously with a wooden spoon to make it smooth. It should have the consistency of loose mashed potatoes. Stir in three tablespoons of olive oil and salt to taste. The puree should be well seasoned. Cover and keep warm.
Trim the tough stem ends from the chicory. If the leaves are very large, cut them into pieces. Wash thoroughly in several changes of cold water. Wild greens hold dirt. Shake off excess water but do not dry completely. The water clinging to the leaves will help them cook.
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the chicory and cook until tender but not mushy, 8 to 12 minutes depending on the toughness of the greens. They should bend easily but retain some texture. Drain well, pressing gently to remove excess water.
In a large skillet, warm the remaining three tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the crushed garlic and let it perfume the oil for one minute. It must not brown. Add the blanched chicory and toss to coat with the oil. Season with salt. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove and discard the garlic.
Divide the warm fava puree among shallow bowls, spreading it across one side. Arrange the sautéed chicory alongside. Drizzle both generously with your finest olive oil. Serve immediately. You eat them together, a forkful of puree with a bite of greens. The contrast is the point.
1 serving (about 400g)
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