
Chef Isabel
Ajo Carretero de Soria
Ajo carretero is Soriano, from the pine country of Soria: lamb cooked in a plain garlicky broth, then served the old way, meat first and bread-soaked soup after.
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Escaldón de gofio is Canary Island spoon food: toasted grain flour drinking hot caldo until it turns thick, savory, and steady enough to hold the spoon.
Escaldón de gofio is Canarian, from the islands, and it is not a soup in the neat mainland way. It is gofio, toasted grain flour, scalded with hot fish broth or meat broth until it becomes a thick, savory paste you eat with a spoon. That toasted taste is what makes it itself: nutty, plain, filling, and older than half the dishes people call Spanish without thinking.
The method that decides it is the pour. The caldo must be hot, just off the boil, and the gofio must go in slowly while you stir without stopping. Dump it in all at once and you get lumps. Stir it steady and it drinks the broth cleanly, turning glossy and firm but still soft enough to scoop. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
If you can't find Canarian gofio, look first for a roasted corn or roasted barley flour, not raw cornmeal. Raw flour tastes flat here and needs cooking in a way this dish doesn't ask for. A toasted substitute will get you close, though it won't have the same deep island roast. No hace falta haber pisado España; you do need the right flour and a good broth.
Gofio belongs to the Canary Islands and comes from the islands' old practice of roasting grain before grinding it, a way to make flour keep well and feed a household quickly. Before wheat and maize became common in different islands and kitchens, roasted barley was central to the food of the Guanches, the indigenous people of the Canaries. Escaldón turns that stored flour into hot food with the broth already on the stove, often the caldo from fish, puchero, or a meat pot.
Quantity
750ml
kept hot
Quantity
220g
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 small sprig
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| strong fish broth or meat brothkept hot | 750ml |
| Canarian gofio de millo or mixed gofio | 220g |
| red onionthinly sliced | 1 small |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| mojo verde or mojo picón (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh mint (optional) | 1 small sprig |
| salt (optional) | to taste |
Bring the broth to a lively simmer, then taste it before the gofio goes anywhere near it. It should be well seasoned, because the flour will soften the salt. Keep it hot, just off the boil. A weak broth gives a weak escaldón, and no stirring fixes that.
Put the gofio in a wide bowl or low cazuela. Pour in about half the hot broth in a thin stream while stirring hard with a wooden spoon. Keep the spoon moving through the middle and around the edges. This is the whole trick: slow broth, steady hand, no lumps.
Add more hot broth little by little until the escaldón is thick, glossy, and soft enough to scoop, like a firm savory porridge. You may not need every drop, because each gofio drinks differently. If it gets too stiff, add another splash of hot broth. If it is loose, rain in a spoonful more gofio and stir until it tightens.
Smooth the top with the back of the spoon and make a small hollow in the middle. Spoon over the olive oil, add a little mojo if you are using it, and set the sliced red onion on top or alongside. A mint sprig is old-fashioned in some homes and good with fish broth. Serve at once, while the surface still shines.
1 serving (about 260g)
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Chef Isabel
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