
Chef Dimitra
Amygdalota Hydras kai Androu (Αμυγδαλωτά Ύδρας και Άνδρου)
Hydra and Andros give amygdalota their island surname: ground almond, sugar, egg white, and rosewater, baked pale so the center stays soft as marzipan.
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Cretan moustokouloura are dark grape-must cookies made with petimezi, olive oil, orange, and warm spice, soft enough for coffee and sturdy enough to keep for days.
Cretan moustokouloura are the grape-must cookies of the vintage table, dark from petimezi, fragrant with orange, cinnamon, and clove, and made without egg or butter. They belong to the season when the grapes have been pressed and the new sweetness is still in the house.
The dough is modest, but it asks for restraint. Mix until it comes together and stop. If you keep adding flour because the dough feels soft, the cookies bake hard and dry, and then you have punished the petimezi for no reason. A little oil on your hands is the better answer.
These are nistisima, fasting cookies, but not a compromise. Orthodox fasting gave the Greek kitchen some of its deepest sweets, and this is one of them: olive oil, must syrup, citrus, spice. Λίγα και καλά. A few things, and good ones.
I write this version as I have seen it in Cretan notebooks, with petimezi instead of fresh must so a home cook can make it outside the pressing weeks. The region is the dish's surname, and Crete knows what to do with grapes.
In Crete, grape must was boiled into petimezi after the September vintage, preserving grape sweetness long before refined sugar became ordinary in village kitchens. Moustokouloura and moustalevria belong to that harvest table: one baked to keep, the other spooned fresh and eaten soft. Because the dough is sweetened with must syrup and bound with olive oil, the cookies also fit the Orthodox fasting calendar.
Quantity
180ml
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
30ml
Quantity
80g
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
finely grated
Quantity
500g
plus a little more only if needed
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| petimezi (grape must syrup) | 180ml |
| extra virgin olive oil | 120ml |
| fresh orange juice | 80ml |
| raki or brandy | 30ml |
| light brown sugar | 80g |
| baking soda | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cinnamon | 2 teaspoons |
| ground clove | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| orange zestfinely grated | 1 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flourplus a little more only if needed | 500g |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
Heat the oven to 175C. Line two large baking sheets with parchment. Moustokouloura bake best with a little room around them, because they spread just enough to soften at the edges.
In a large bowl, whisk the petimezi, olive oil, orange juice, raki, and sugar until the sugar loosens and the mixture looks dark, glossy, and even. Stir in the orange zest.
Sprinkle in the baking soda and whisk for a few seconds. The orange juice will make it foam lightly. That little lift matters in a cookie with no egg or butter, so don't skip it.
In a separate bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, clove, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the wet bowl in two additions, stirring with a spoon until a soft, slightly oily dough forms. Stop as soon as no dry flour remains. This is the step that decides them: too much flour or too much kneading makes moustokouloura hard instead of tender.
Let the dough rest for 10 minutes. It will firm as the flour drinks the oil and petimezi. If it still sticks heavily to your hands after resting, work in 1 tablespoon flour at a time, no more than needed.
Lightly oil your hands. Pinch off pieces of dough about 35g each, roll into short ropes, and join the ends into small rings. Set them on the trays with space between them. The shape is simple and old, a little bracelet for the coffee cup.
Bake one tray at a time for 15 to 18 minutes, until the cookies are puffed, matte on top, and just firm at the edges. They should still feel a little soft in the center. They finish setting as they cool.
Cool on the tray for 10 minutes, then move to a rack. Store airtight once fully cold. By the next day the petimezi settles through the crumb and the spice becomes rounder.
1 serving (about 35g)
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