Conserva di Pomodoro

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Food mill with fine disk
• •Large heavy-bottomed pot (at least 8 quarts)
• •Pint canning jars with two-piece lids (4 jars)
• •Water bath canner or large stockpot with rack
• •Jar lifter
• •Canning funnel
• •Thin spatula for removing air bubbles

Instructions

1. 1

   Select and prepare tomatoes

   Use only tomatoes at full ripeness, deeply red and fragrant. Rinse them under cold water and remove the cores. Cut each tomato in half lengthwise. There is no need to remove seeds or skin at this stage. The food mill will handle both later.

   San Marzano tomatoes from Campania have the ideal balance of flesh to juice for conserva. Roma tomatoes are an acceptable substitute. Do not use beefsteak or slicing tomatoes. They contain too much water and not enough flesh.
2. 2

   Cook the tomatoes

   Place the halved tomatoes in your largest heavy pot. Do not add water. The tomatoes will release their own liquid within minutes. Set the pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the tomatoes have collapsed completely and released all their juices. This takes 30 to 45 minutes. The kitchen will smell of August.

3. 3

   Pass through food mill

   Set a food mill fitted with the finest disk over a large bowl. Work the cooked tomatoes through in batches, scraping the bottom of the disk frequently. The mill separates flesh from skin and seeds. Discard what remains in the mill. You should have approximately 3 quarts of tomato puree.

   A food mill is essential equipment for any serious Italian cook. It produces a texture that no blender or food processor can replicate. The seeds and skins stay behind, and the puree emerges smooth but with body.
4. 4

   Reduce the puree

   Return the strained puree to a clean heavy pot. Add the salt and olive oil. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cook uncovered, stirring every 15 minutes, until the conserva has reduced by half and thickened considerably. The surface should look glossy and the consistency should coat a spoon heavily. This takes 2 to 3 hours. Do not rush it. Do not cover the pot.

5. 5

   Prepare the jars

   While the conserva reduces, wash pint canning jars, lids, and bands in hot soapy water. Place the jars in a large pot of water, bring to a boil, and keep them hot until ready to fill. Keep the lids in a small pan of hot (not boiling) water. Sterilization matters. You are preserving food for months.

6. 6

   Fill and process jars

   Add one tablespoon of bottled lemon juice to each hot jar. This ensures safe acidity for water bath canning. Place 4 or 5 basil leaves in each jar. Ladle the hot conserva into the jars, leaving one-half inch of headspace. Remove air bubbles by sliding a thin spatula around the inside. Wipe the rims clean with a damp cloth. Center the lids and apply bands fingertip-tight.

   Bottled lemon juice has consistent acidity. Fresh lemon juice does not. For safe canning, you must use bottled. This is not a matter of preference. It is a matter of food safety.
7. 7

   Water bath processing

   Place the filled jars on a rack in a large pot. Cover with water by at least one inch. Bring to a boil and process for 35 minutes at a full rolling boil. Adjust for altitude if necessary. When time is complete, turn off heat and let jars rest in water for 5 minutes. Remove jars to a towel-lined surface and let them cool undisturbed for 12 hours.

8. 8

   Check seals and store

   After 12 hours, press the center of each lid. It should not flex. If a lid pops up and down, the jar did not seal. Refrigerate that jar and use within two weeks. Properly sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to one year. Label them with the date. When you open one in January, you will taste August.

Chef Tips

• •The best day to make conserva is when you have found tomatoes at their peak and cannot bear to let them pass. Farmers markets in late August offer this opportunity. Do not wait for a more convenient day. The tomatoes will not wait for you.
• •Sicilian tradition calls for spreading the cooked puree on wooden boards in the sun to concentrate further, stirring every few hours for two or three days. This produces strattu, an even more intense paste. If you have relentless August sun and the patience of a Sicilian grandmother, try it.
• •The olive oil floated on top of the conserva in the jar creates a seal that helps preservation. Use good oil. It becomes part of whatever dish you eventually make.
• •Store unsealed jars in the refrigerator and use within three weeks. Once opened, a sealed jar should be refrigerated and used within two weeks.

Advance Preparation

• •Tomatoes can be cooked and passed through the food mill one day ahead. Refrigerate the puree and continue with reduction the following day.
• •Properly sealed jars store for up to one year in a cool, dark place. The conserva deepens in flavor over the first month.
• •Once opened, refrigerate and use within two weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 125g)