Classic Potato Latkes

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Box grater or food processor with shredding disc
• •12-inch cast iron skillet or heavy-bottomed frying pan
• •Clean kitchen towels or cheesecloth for squeezing
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Sheet pans

Instructions

1. 1

   Grate the potatoes and onion

   Peel the potatoes and grate them on the large holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Work quickly; potatoes oxidize and turn gray when exposed to air. Grate the onion directly into the same bowl. The onion's acidity helps slow the browning, so mix everything together immediately. If you prefer a food processor, use the shredding disc, but know that the texture will be slightly more uniform than hand-grated.

   Keep a bowl of cold water nearby. If you must pause, submerge the grated potatoes briefly, then drain and squeeze extra-thoroughly before proceeding.
2. 2

   Remove the moisture

   This step separates good latkes from great ones. Transfer the potato-onion mixture to a clean kitchen towel or cheesecloth. Gather the corners and twist over the sink, squeezing with genuine force until the liquid stops flowing. You'll be surprised how much comes out. Open the towel, stir the mixture, and squeeze again. The potatoes should feel almost dry to the touch. Let the expressed liquid sit for five minutes; potato starch will settle to the bottom. Pour off the water carefully and scrape that white starch back into your potato mixture. This is free binding power.

   A potato ricer works beautifully for squeezing if you have one. Press small batches firmly.
3. 3

   Mix the batter

   Add the beaten eggs, matzo meal, salt, and pepper to the squeezed potato mixture. Stir with a fork until everything is evenly combined. The mixture should hold together loosely when pressed but still look shaggy, not smooth. If it seems wet, add another teaspoon of matzo meal. If it seems too dry to hold together, you've done an excellent job squeezing, so add a splash of the reserved potato water.

4. 4

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet to a depth of about 1/4 inch. Heat over medium-high until a small piece of potato mixture sizzles immediately and vigorously when dropped in. A thermometer should read 365 to 375 degrees. This temperature matters. Too cool and the latkes absorb oil and turn greasy. Too hot and they brown before cooking through. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and set it near the stove.

   Test your oil with a single latke before committing to a full batch. Adjust heat as needed based on how it performs.
5. 5

   Form and fry the latkes

   Scoop about 2 tablespoons of the potato mixture and drop it into the hot oil. Use the back of a fork to gently flatten into a 3-inch round. Don't pack it tight; loose edges fry into those coveted lacy, crispy bits. Add 3 or 4 more latkes to the pan, leaving space between each. Fry undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until the edges turn deep golden and the bottom is richly browned. Flip carefully and fry another 3 minutes until the second side matches. The latkes should be uniformly golden with darker spots at the edges. Transfer to the prepared sheet pan.

6. 6

   Maintain your oil

   Between batches, skim out any burnt potato shreds floating in the oil. These will give subsequent latkes a bitter taste. Let the oil return to temperature before adding the next batch. If the oil level drops below 1/4 inch, add more and wait for it to heat through. Rush this step and you'll produce latkes that look done but aren't. The oil temperature drops when cold batter hits it; patience lets it recover.

7. 7

   Season and serve

   Sprinkle each batch with a pinch of flaky salt while still hot. Serve immediately on a warm platter with applesauce and sour cream on the side. Traditionally, guests choose their camp: sweet applesauce devotees on one side, tangy sour cream loyalists on the other. There is no wrong answer, and many find wisdom in using both.

Chef Tips

• •Russet potatoes contain more starch than Yukon Golds or red potatoes, which makes them ideal for latkes that hold together and crisp properly. Don't substitute waxy varieties.
• •The schmaltz question: traditionally, latkes were fried in rendered chicken fat. If you have access to good schmaltz, use half schmaltz and half vegetable oil for remarkable depth of flavor while maintaining a high smoke point.
• •Serve latkes the moment they come out of the pan for maximum crispness. If you must hold them, place on a wire rack set over a sheet pan in a 200-degree oven for up to 20 minutes. Avoid stacking.
• •For apple season, make your own applesauce: simmer peeled, chopped apples with a cinnamon stick and touch of sugar until soft. Mash roughly for texture. It takes twenty minutes and transforms the whole plate.
• •Some families add a pinch of baking powder to the batter for extra lightness. I find it unnecessary if you've squeezed the potatoes properly, but it won't hurt.

Advance Preparation

• •Latkes can be fried up to 2 days ahead, cooled completely, and refrigerated in a single layer. Reheat on a sheet pan in a 400-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes until crisp.
• •For freezing: fry latkes, cool completely on a wire rack, then freeze in a single layer on a sheet pan. Once solid, transfer to freezer bags. They keep for up to 2 months. Reheat from frozen in a 375-degree oven for 12 to 15 minutes.
• •The potato mixture cannot be made ahead. Grated potatoes oxidize and release more liquid as they sit. Grate, squeeze, mix, and fry in one continuous session.
• •Applesauce improves after a day in the refrigerator. Make it up to 5 days ahead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 140g, 3 latkes)