
Chef Joost
Bavarois met Frambozensaus
A French-Bavarian name, a Dutch party mould, and the quiet trick of gelatine: custard cooled just enough, cream folded gently, and a dessert made ahead like a host with sense.
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Despite the name, no sausage comes near it: chipolatapudding is the Dutch Sunday-best pudding, pale cream set around jewels of fruit, almond biscuits, and a little old-fashioned liqueur.
The name already tells you trouble is coming. Chipolatapudding sounds, to any sensible person, like a dessert that has lost an argument with a sausage. But let me tell you a secret: Dutch festive cookery has always enjoyed a borrowed French word, especially when it could make a simple family pudding sound grand enough for the Sunday table.
Chipolata came into Dutch kitchens through French menu language, from dishes served a la chipolata, where small sausages and diced garnishes appeared together. Somewhere along the way, the little pieces mattered more than the sausage. In this pudding they become candied peel, raisins, bitterkoekjes, those chewy Dutch almond biscuits, and a discreet splash of marasquin. A proper toetje, dessert, with a dinner-party collar on.
This is not difficult cooking, but it asks you to behave calmly. Gelatine wants patience, custard wants gentle heat, and whipped cream wants folding rather than bullying. Soak the biscuits just enough that they perfume the pudding without collapsing into paste. Chill it long enough to turn out cleanly. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: a mold, a custard, a cold night in the refrigerator, and then the small theatre of turning it onto a plate while everyone pretends not to watch.
Chipolatapudding belongs to the Dutch bourgeois pudding tradition of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when molded gelatine desserts moved from hotel and restaurant menus into holiday home cooking. The name is borrowed from French culinary usage, a la chipolata, originally connected to small sausages and diced garnishes, but Dutch kitchens kept the idea of scattered little pieces and left the sausage behind. Its usual ingredients, bitterkoekjes, candied fruit, raisins, cream, and marasquin or rum, mark it as a celebration pudding rather than an everyday dairy dessert.
Quantity
8 sheets or 12g powdered gelatine
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
1 pod or 2 teaspoons
pod split
Quantity
4
Quantity
100g
Quantity
250ml
cold
Quantity
100g
broken into small pieces
Quantity
75g
finely diced
Quantity
50g
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for the mold
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| gelatine sheets | 8 sheets or 12g powdered gelatine |
| whole milk | 500ml |
| vanilla pod or vanilla extractpod split | 1 pod or 2 teaspoons |
| egg yolks | 4 |
| caster sugar | 100g |
| whipping creamcold | 250ml |
| bitterkoekjesbroken into small pieces | 100g |
| mixed candied fruitfinely diced | 75g |
| raisins | 50g |
| marasquin liqueur or rum | 3 tablespoons |
| neutral oilfor the mold | 1 tablespoon |
Put the gelatine sheets in a bowl of cold water and leave them for ten minutes until soft. If using powdered gelatine, sprinkle it over 4 tablespoons cold milk taken from the measured milk and let it swell. Gelatine is not difficult, only proud; give it cold liquid first and it behaves.
Heat the milk with the vanilla pod until it is hot but not boiling, then take it off the heat and let it sit for five minutes. Fish out the pod, scraping the seeds back into the milk. If using vanilla extract, stir it in after the milk is warmed.
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale and thick. Pour in the hot milk slowly, whisking all the time, then return everything to the pan over low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the custard lightly coats the back of it, about 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let it boil, or the eggs will scramble and no amount of nostalgia will save them.
Squeeze the softened gelatine sheets dry and stir them into the warm custard until completely dissolved. If using powdered gelatine, stir in the swollen mixture. Pour the custard into a clean bowl and let it cool until it is thickened but not set, about 30 to 40 minutes, stirring now and then.
Toss the broken bitterkoekjes, candied fruit, and raisins with the marasquin liqueur. Leave them for 10 minutes, just long enough to perfume the biscuits. You want almond pieces suspended through the pudding, not a sweet paste at the bottom of the bowl.
Whip the cold cream to soft peaks. Fold it gently into the cooled custard, then fold in the soaked biscuit mixture. Turn the bowl slowly as you fold; the aim is an even, airy pudding with little pieces everywhere, not a custard beaten into obedience.
Lightly oil a 1.2 liter pudding mold and wipe out the excess with kitchen paper, leaving only a whisper of oil. Spoon in the pudding mixture, tap the mold once on the counter to settle it, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.
Dip the outside of the mold briefly in warm water for 5 to 8 seconds, place a serving plate on top, and invert with confidence. If it hesitates, hold the mold and plate together and give them one firm shake. Serve cold, sliced in wedges, with nothing more than a little extra candied fruit if the table is feeling festive.
1 serving (about 145g)
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