Chicken Divan

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •9x13-inch baking dish or 3-quart gratin dish
• •Large saucepan for poaching
• •Medium saucepan for sauce
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Large bowl for ice bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Poach the chicken

   Place chicken breasts in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by two inches. Add the quartered onion, celery, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Set over medium-high heat and bring just to a simmer. You'll see small bubbles breaking the surface, not a rolling boil. Reduce heat to maintain this gentle simmer and cook for 18 to 22 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 165°F. The chicken should feel firm but spring back when pressed.

   Starting in cold water allows the chicken to cook more evenly and produces a cleaner, more flavorful poaching liquid.
2. 2

   Rest and shred chicken

   Transfer chicken to a cutting board and let rest for ten minutes. Strain the poaching liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the aromatics, and reserve two cups for the sauce. Once cool enough to handle, shred the chicken into generous bite-sized pieces using two forks or your fingers. The pieces should be irregular, with some larger chunks and some that will melt into the sauce. Season lightly with salt.

3. 3

   Blanch the broccoli

   Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. Add broccoli florets to the boiling water and cook for exactly two minutes. The broccoli should be bright green and still have resistance when pierced with a knife. Drain immediately and plunge into the ice bath to stop the cooking. Once completely cool, drain thoroughly and pat dry with kitchen towels. Wet broccoli will make your sauce watery.

   Cut your florets into uniform pieces about two inches across. They'll shrink slightly in the blanching and continue cooking in the oven.
4. 4

   Build the cream sauce

   Melt four tablespoons of butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the flour and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for two minutes. The roux should smell faintly nutty and turn a pale blonde color. Slowly whisk in the reserved poaching liquid, adding it in a steady stream while whisking vigorously to prevent lumps. Whisk in the heavy cream. Bring to a simmer and cook for eight to ten minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon and a finger drawn through it leaves a clean trail.

5. 5

   Finish the sauce

   Remove the saucepan from heat. Stir in the sherry, three-quarters cup of the Parmesan, the nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. The sauce should be assertively flavored since the chicken and broccoli will absorb much of it. It should taste of good cheese and have a gentle warmth from the sherry and nutmeg. If it seems too thick, thin with a splash more cream or stock.

6. 6

   Prepare the topping

   Melt the remaining two tablespoons butter and toss with the breadcrumbs in a small bowl until evenly coated. The crumbs should feel damp but not wet. Mix in the Gruyère and remaining quarter cup of Parmesan. This combination gives you both the nutty sharpness of Parmesan and the stretchy, golden melt of Gruyère.

7. 7

   Assemble the casserole

   Preheat your oven to 375°F. Butter a 9x13-inch baking dish or a three-quart gratin dish. Arrange the blanched broccoli florets in a single layer across the bottom, stems pointing inward. Scatter the shredded chicken evenly over the broccoli. Pour the cream sauce over everything, using a spatula to spread it into the corners and ensure the chicken and broccoli are completely covered. The sauce should come nearly to the top of the ingredients.

   A gratin dish with sloped sides shows off the layers beautifully and gives you more of those crispy edges everyone fights over.
8. 8

   Add topping and bake

   Scatter the breadcrumb and cheese mixture evenly over the surface of the casserole. Don't press it down. You want it loose so it can crisp properly. Bake uncovered for 30 to 35 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling vigorously around the edges and the topping is deep golden brown with darker spots here and there. The center should jiggle slightly when you move the dish.

9. 9

   Rest and serve

   Remove from the oven and let rest for ten minutes before serving. This isn't optional. The sauce needs time to settle and thicken slightly, and the temperature needs to drop enough that you won't scorch anyone's mouth. Serve directly from the baking dish, scooping deep to get all the layers in each portion. The broccoli should still have a bit of bite, the chicken should be silky from the sauce, and that topping should crackle when you break through it.

Chef Tips

• •Use a dry sherry like Fino or Manzanilla, not cooking sherry from the grocery store shelf. That stuff is loaded with salt and tastes like nothing good. A decent bottle costs eight dollars and lasts for months in the refrigerator.
• •Make your own breadcrumbs from day-old crusty bread pulsed in a food processor. The texture is superior to anything from a canister, and you control the coarseness.
• •This casserole pairs beautifully with a lightly oaked Chardonnay or a dry Chenin Blanc. The wine's acidity cuts through the richness while echoing the sherry notes in the sauce.
• •Leftover poaching liquid makes excellent soup. Freeze what you don't use for the sauce and add it to your next batch of rice or risotto.
• •For a dinner party, prepare individual portions in small gratin dishes. They bake faster, look more elegant, and everyone gets plenty of that golden crust.

Advance Preparation

• •The entire casserole can be assembled up to 24 hours ahead. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Add 10-15 minutes to the baking time, and ensure the center is bubbling before serving.
• •Chicken can be poached and shredded up to 2 days ahead. Store covered in a splash of the poaching liquid to keep it moist.
• •The cream sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Reheat gently before assembling, thinning with cream if needed.
• •Blanched broccoli keeps refrigerated for up to 1 day. Pat thoroughly dry before using.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 330g)