
Chef Dean
American Goulash
A Midwestern one-pot supper of seasoned ground beef, tender elbow macaroni, and tomatoes simmered into a thick, soul-satisfying stew. This is the dish that fed factory workers and farm families alike.
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Tender chicken draped in a glossy cream sauce laced with dry sherry, studded with earthy mushrooms and sweet pimientos. This is American fine dining brought home, a dish that rewards proper technique with flavors no canned soup can replicate.
Chicken à la King belongs to that golden era of American cuisine when hotel dining rooms competed for prestige through dishes of genuine sophistication. The exact origin remains contested. Delmonico's in New York claimed it. So did the Brighton Beach Hotel. A chef named William King may have inspired the name, or perhaps a wealthy patron named E. Clark King II. The truth matters less than what survived: a dish so beloved it became a household staple by the 1920s.
Then came the canned versions. The frozen dinners. The cream-of-mushroom shortcuts that stripped away everything dignified about this preparation. I've spent decades watching good American dishes suffer this fate, and Chicken à la King suffered more than most.
But make it properly and you'll understand why it once graced the menus of America's finest establishments. The sauce should be silky, not gluey. The sherry must be dry and added with intention, not splashed from a cooking wine bottle. The mushrooms get sautéed separately so they caramelize rather than steam. Every component deserves individual attention before joining the whole.
This is not difficult cooking. It's attentive cooking. The reward is a dish your grandmother might recognize from her mother's table, made the way it was meant to be made.
Quantity
2 pounds
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
8 ounces
sliced
Quantity
1 medium
minced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
drained and diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
thawed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| boneless, skinless chicken breasts | 2 pounds |
| chicken stock, homemade or low-sodium | 4 cups |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| unsalted butter, divided | 4 tablespoons |
| cremini mushroomssliced | 8 ounces |
| shallotminced | 1 medium |
| all-purpose flour | 4 tablespoons |
| heavy cream | 1 cup |
| dry sherry | 1/3 cup |
| jarred pimientosdrained and diced | 1/4 cup |
| frozen peasthawed | 1/2 cup |
| egg yolks | 2 |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| cayenne pepper | pinch |
| toast points or puff pastry shells | for serving |
Place chicken breasts in a wide saucepan and cover with the chicken stock. Add the bay leaf and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. You want lazy bubbles breaking the surface, not a rolling boil. Poach for 18 to 22 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 165°F and the meat is cooked through but still moist. Transfer chicken to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Strain and reserve 2 cups of the poaching liquid. Discard the bay leaf.
Once rested, cut the chicken into generous half-inch cubes. Don't shred it. Chicken à la King should have distinct, fork-ready pieces that hold their shape in the sauce. Set aside and cover loosely to keep warm.
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the sliced mushrooms in a single layer. Don't crowd them. Let them sit undisturbed for 2 minutes until golden on the bottom, then stir and cook another 2 to 3 minutes until browned on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. The mushrooms should smell earthy and look caramelized, not pale and soggy.
In the same skillet, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until softened and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and stir constantly with a wooden spoon for 2 full minutes. The roux should turn a pale blonde color and smell faintly nutty. This cooking eliminates the raw flour taste that ruins so many cream sauces.
Slowly whisk in the reserved poaching liquid, adding it in three additions and whisking thoroughly after each. Work out every lump before adding more liquid. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon and leaves a clean line when you draw your finger through it. The transformation from thin liquid to glossy sauce happens gradually. Patience.
Reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in the heavy cream and dry sherry. Let the sauce simmer gently for another 3 to 4 minutes. It should be velvety and just thick enough to nap the chicken without being gluey. Taste and adjust salt. The sherry should be present but not dominant. If you can't taste it at all, add another tablespoon.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice. Ladle about half a cup of the hot sauce into the bowl while whisking constantly. This tempers the yolks so they won't scramble when added to the pot. Pour the tempered mixture back into the skillet, whisking steadily. The sauce will turn glossy and slightly richer in color. Do not let it boil from this point forward or the yolks will curdle.
Fold in the diced chicken, sautéed mushrooms, pimientos, and peas. Stir gently to coat everything in the sauce. Let it warm through over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes. The peas should turn bright green and the chicken should absorb some of the sauce. Add the cayenne and taste once more for seasoning. The finished dish should be creamy, savory, with just enough acid from the lemon to lift everything.
Spoon generous portions over crisp toast points or into warm puff pastry shells. Scatter fresh parsley over each serving. Bring it to the table while the sauce is still glossy and pooling invitingly. This is a dish that deserves good china and cloth napkins, even on a Tuesday night.
1 serving (about 265g)
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