
Chef Graziella
Asparagi al Forno con Parmigiano
Roasted asparagus finished with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the same region that grows the best spears. Four ingredients. No complications. Nothing to hide behind.
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Whole artichokes stuffed with mint and garlic, braised slowly in olive oil until the tough leaves surrender and the heart becomes silk. This is how Romans have eaten artichokes for centuries.
Romans are possessive about their artichokes, and they have earned the right. The carciofo romanesco, round and thornless with a heart so tender you can eat the entire thing, grows in the fields outside the city and appears in every trattoria from February through May. This is their preparation, and it is perfect.
The dish requires mentuccia, a wild mint that grows in the Roman campagna and tastes nothing like the mint in American gardens. I have spent years trying to explain this to students who insist on substituting peppermint. You cannot. What you can do is combine fresh spearmint with flat-leaf parsley, which approximates the herbal, slightly bitter quality of the original. It is not the same. It is close enough.
Trimming artichokes frightens people who have never done it. You remove the tough outer leaves. You cut the top. You peel the stem. You rub everything with lemon. This takes practice, and you will waste some artichoke the first time. The second time will be better. By the fifth, your hands will know what to do.
The braising is simple: olive oil, water, patience. The artichokes sit stem-up so the oil runs down into the leaves. You cook them slowly, covered, until a fork slides into the heart without resistance. Then you let them rest. Romans often serve these at room temperature, which allows the flavors to settle and deepen.
Carciofi alla Romana dates to at least the Renaissance, when artichokes became a prized crop in the fields around Rome. The dish belongs to the tradition of cucina povera, where a single vegetable, properly prepared, becomes the entire course. Spring in Rome still means artichokes piled in pyramids at Campo de' Fiori, and every Roman nonna has her own opinion about the correct amount of mentuccia.
Quantity
4 large
Quantity
2
halved
Quantity
1/2 cup
chopped fine
Quantity
1/4 cup
chopped fine
Quantity
4
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 cup
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| globe artichokes | 4 large |
| lemonshalved | 2 |
| fresh spearmint leaveschopped fine | 1/2 cup |
| fresh flat-leaf parsley leaveschopped fine | 1/4 cup |
| garlic clovesminced | 4 |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3/4 cup |
| water | 1 cup |
Fill a large bowl with cold water and squeeze in the juice of one lemon. Drop the squeezed halves into the water. This prevents the artichokes from oxidizing as you work. Keep the remaining lemon half nearby to rub the cut surfaces.
Working with one artichoke at a time, snap off the dark outer leaves until you reach the pale yellow-green inner leaves. These outer leaves are tough and bitter. Do not be timid. You will remove more than you expect. Cut off the top third of the artichoke with a sharp knife. Trim the base where the leaves were removed. Peel the stem with a vegetable peeler, removing the fibrous outer layer to reveal the pale, tender core. Do not remove the stem. It is edible and delicious when peeled properly.
Spread the inner leaves apart gently with your thumbs to expose the fuzzy choke in the center. Use a small spoon or melon baller to scrape out the hairy fibers, rotating the artichoke as you work. The choke must be completely removed. Any fibers left behind will be unpleasant to eat. Rub all cut surfaces with the remaining lemon half and place the artichoke in the acidulated water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
In a small bowl, combine the chopped mint, parsley, minced garlic, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly with your fingers. The mixture should be fragrant and slightly damp from the herbs.
Remove the artichokes from the water and shake off excess liquid. Gently spread the leaves and push the herb mixture between them, working from the outside toward the center. Use about two tablespoons per artichoke. Press some of the mixture into the cavity where the choke was removed. The stuffing should be distributed throughout, not concentrated in one place.
Choose a heavy pot or Dutch oven just large enough to hold the artichokes snugly in a single layer. They should support each other. Place them stem-side up. This is essential. The oil must run down into the leaves as they cook. Pour the olive oil over and around the artichokes. Add the water to the pot. Season with a pinch more salt.
Cover the pot and place over medium heat until the liquid begins to simmer. Reduce the heat to low. The liquid should barely bubble. Braise for 45 minutes to one hour, checking occasionally. Add a few tablespoons of water if the pot becomes dry. The artichokes are done when a fork slides easily into the heart with no resistance and the outer leaves pull away without effort.
Remove the pot from heat and let the artichokes rest, uncovered, for at least 15 minutes. They may be served warm or at room temperature, which is traditional in Rome. Place each artichoke on a plate stem-up, spoon some of the cooking liquid over the top, and serve. Provide extra plates for discarded leaves.
1 serving (about 165g)
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