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Tender, nutty buckwheat pancakes crowned with a simple compote of whatever fruit the market offers, the kind of breakfast that turns a slow morning into something worth remembering.
Buckwheat is not wheat at all. It is a seed, earthy and slightly tannic, with a nuttiness that tastes of the fields where it grew. In Brittany, they have known this for centuries, folding it into galettes and serving them with cider. Here, we turn it into pancakes and let the season decide what goes on top.
The fruit matters more than the technique. A compote is nothing but fruit cooked gently with a little sweetener until it softens and releases its juice. If your berries are at perfect ripeness, you will need almost nothing. If they are slightly underripe, a few more minutes and a touch more honey will coax them along. Trust what the fruit tells you.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. These pancakes ask very little of you: good buckwheat flour, eggs from a farmer you know, butter that tastes like butter. The rest is patience and attention. The batter rests. The pan heats slowly. The fruit simmers until it smells like summer or autumn or whatever season you are standing in.
Quantity
1 cup (120g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (60g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 1/2 cups (360ml)
Quantity
2
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for the pan
melted and cooled
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 cups
berries, stone fruit, pears, or figs
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| buckwheat flour | 1 cup (120g) |
| all-purpose flour | 1/2 cup (60g) |
| sugar | 2 tablespoons |
| baking powder | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| buttermilk | 1 1/2 cups (360ml) |
| large eggs | 2 |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled | 3 tablespoons, plus more for the pan |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| seasonal fruitberries, stone fruit, pears, or figs | 2 cups |
| honey or maple syrup | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| salt for the compote | pinch |
Start with the fruit. If using berries, leave small ones whole and halve larger ones. Stone fruit should be pitted and sliced into wedges. Pears or figs, quartered. Place the fruit in a small saucepan with the honey, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Set over medium-low heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, until the fruit softens and releases its juice, eight to twelve minutes. Some fruits will hold their shape; others will collapse into jam. Both are right.
In a large bowl, whisk together the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. The buckwheat will look darker and more speckled than what you are used to. This is its character showing.
In a smaller bowl or measuring pitcher, whisk the buttermilk with the eggs, melted butter, and vanilla until smooth. The buttermilk's tang will balance the earthiness of the buckwheat.
Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir with a wooden spoon or spatula until just combined. The batter will be thick and slightly lumpy. Do not overmix. A few streaks of flour are perfectly fine. Let the batter rest for five minutes while you heat your pan. This rest allows the buckwheat to hydrate fully.
Set a cast iron skillet or griddle over medium heat. Let it warm slowly for two to three minutes. Add a small knob of butter and swirl to coat. The butter should foam gently, not brown immediately. If it browns too fast, your pan is too hot. Wipe it out, lower the heat, and start again.
Pour about a quarter cup of batter for each pancake. Let them cook undisturbed until bubbles rise to the surface and begin to pop, the edges look set, and the underside is golden brown, about two to three minutes. Flip gently. The second side needs only a minute or so. The pancakes should feel light when you lift them.
Transfer cooked pancakes to a warm oven (200F) while you finish the batch. Add a small knob of butter before each new round. Stack the pancakes on warm plates, spoon the fruit compote generously over the top, and let the juices run down the sides. A drizzle of good honey or maple syrup if you like, though the compote may be sweet enough on its own.
1 serving (about 250g)
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