
Chef Thomas
Banbury Cakes
Oval pastries filled with rum-soaked currants and spice, baked until the tops crackle with sugar. The kind of thing to make on a wet Sunday afternoon when you want the kitchen to smell of something.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A proper Bakewell tart with buttery shortcrust, a thick layer of raspberry jam, and almond frangipane baked golden under a scattering of flaked almonds. No icing. No nonsense.
It's the smell that gets you first. Butter and almonds and warm jam, all of it drifting out of the oven about twenty minutes in, the kind of smell that makes whoever is in the next room wander into the kitchen without quite knowing why. A Bakewell tart in the oven is one of the more useful things you can do on a Sunday afternoon when the weather has gone in and the radio is on.
The story goes that this came from a happy accident at an inn in Derbyshire, a cook misreading instructions and pouring egg mixture over the jam by mistake. I don't know if it's true and I don't much care. What I know is that the combination is right: crisp pastry, sweet-sharp raspberry, soft almond sponge with that faint marzipan perfume. Three things in conversation with each other. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract.
The proper version doesn't have icing on top. The icing is a later addition, a Mr Kipling thing, and there's nothing wrong with it but it's not what we're making. We're making the older, quieter version: just flaked almonds scattered over the frangipane before it goes in the oven, going golden and toasty as the tart bakes. Cleaner. Less sweet. Better with cream.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. Bakewell. Sunday. Cold rain. Cream. Some recipes don't need more than that.
Quantity
200g
Quantity
100g
cubed
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
softened
Quantity
150g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
30g
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| plain flour | 200g |
| cold unsalted buttercubed | 100g |
| icing sugar | 30g |
| large egg yolk | 1 |
| cold water | 2-3 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| good raspberry jam | 150g |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 150g |
| golden caster sugar | 150g |
| ground almonds | 150g |
| large eggs | 3 |
| almond extract | 1 teaspoon |
| flaked almonds | 30g |
| double cream or custard (optional) | to serve |
Tip the flour, icing sugar and salt into a bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Work quickly. Warm hands are the enemy of good pastry. Stir in the egg yolk and just enough cold water to bring the dough together into a rough ball. Stop the moment it holds. Flatten into a disc, wrap, and chill for at least half an hour.
Roll the chilled pastry out on a lightly floured surface to about the thickness of a pound coin. Lift it carefully into a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin, pressing it gently into the corners. Leave a little overhang. Don't trim it yet. Prick the base with a fork and chill again for fifteen minutes while the oven heats to 180C/160C fan.
Line the chilled pastry with baking parchment and fill with baking beans or dried pulses. Bake for fifteen minutes, then lift out the parchment and beans and bake for another five minutes until the base looks dry and just turning the colour of pale straw. Take it out and trim the overhang flush with the rim using a sharp knife. Leave the oven on.
While the case is baking, beat the softened butter and sugar together in a bowl until pale and fluffy. This takes a few minutes. Don't rush it. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. Stir in the ground almonds and the almond extract. The mixture should be soft and droppable, like a thick batter. If it looks split, give it another minute and it will come together.
Spoon the raspberry jam into the cooled tart case and spread it across the base in an even layer. Right to the edges. This is the heart of a Bakewell. Don't be shy with it. A good homemade jam is best if you have one, but a decent shop-bought one with real fruit will do the job.
Spoon the frangipane over the jam and spread it gently to cover. Try not to drag the jam through it. Scatter the flaked almonds over the top. Bake for thirty to thirty-five minutes, until the frangipane is golden brown, set in the middle, and springs back when you press it lightly. Trust your nose. When the kitchen smells of toasted almonds and warm butter, you're close.
Let the tart cool in its tin for at least twenty minutes before lifting it out. The frangipane needs that time to firm up into something that will cut cleanly. Serve in generous wedges, slightly warm or at room temperature, with cold double cream poured over or a jug of proper custard alongside. Both, if it's that kind of evening.
1 serving (about 135g)
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