
Chef Dimitra
Athenian Kalamaki Hoirino se Pita (Καλαμάκι Χοιρινό σε Πίτα)
Athens calls it kalamaki: pork cubes charred on skewers, slid into warm pita with tomato, onion, and tzatziki. The meat needs a little fat, or the grill punishes it.
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Athens grill-house skepasti is the covered pita: gyros, kasseri, tomato, onion, tzatziki, and fries pressed between two pitas until the cheese binds it together.
Skepasti belongs to the Athens grill house, the souvlatzidiko counter where pita, gyros, fries, and a hot press make a full meal you can hold in your hands. Its name means covered, and that is exactly what it is: one pita underneath, one pita over the top, with the filling trapped between them like a flat, generous sandwich.
The method that decides it is the press. Everything must be hot when the two pitas meet, especially the meat and the fries, so the kasseri melts quickly and bonds the layers before the bread dries out. Press it briefly, firmly, and cut it into triangles while the cheese still pulls. Wait too long and you have a stack, not a skepasti.
I keep this one plain because the city version is already correct. Pork gyros if you have it, good pita that bends without cracking, a little tzatziki, tomato, onion, and fries tucked inside. Λίγα και καλά, even for street food. The region is the dish's surname, and here the region is urban Athens, loud with grills and late dinners.
Skepasti is a modern Greek grill-house dish, tied to the urban souvlatzidika of Athens and Thessaloniki rather than to an old village kitchen. It grew from the postwar pita-and-gyros trade, especially after vertical rotisserie gyros became common in Greek shops in the second half of the twentieth century. The second pita is not decoration: it turns the familiar gyros fillings into a pressed, shareable sandwich cut like a club.
Quantity
4
17 to 18cm wide
Quantity
360g
hot
Quantity
160g
coarsely grated
Quantity
220g
cut into thin fries
Quantity
500ml
for frying
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
for the fries
Quantity
1 medium
thinly sliced
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
120g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
for brushing the pitas
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
chopped
Quantity
as needed
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large Greek pita breads17 to 18cm wide | 4 |
| cooked pork gyroshot | 360g |
| kasseri cheesecoarsely grated | 160g |
| potatoescut into thin fries | 220g |
| neutral oilfor frying | 500ml |
| fine sea saltfor the fries | 1/2 teaspoon |
| tomatothinly sliced | 1 medium |
| red onionthinly sliced | 1 small |
| tzatziki | 120g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilfor brushing the pitas | 2 tablespoons |
| dried Greek oregano | 1 teaspoon |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| lemon wedges (optional)for serving | as needed |
Heat the neutral oil in a deep pan to 175C. Fry the potatoes until golden at the edges and tender inside, 5 to 7 minutes, then drain on paper and salt them while hot. Keep them warm. Cold fries sit like cardboard in a skepasti, and no sauce can rescue them.
Warm the cooked pork gyros in a hot skillet for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the edges brown again and the fat glistens. If the meat is already freshly cut from a spit, leave it alone. Good gyros does not need fussing.
Brush both sides of the pitas lightly with olive oil and warm them on a grill pan or flat griddle for 30 to 45 seconds per side. They should bend easily and pick up a little color, not turn crisp yet.
Lay two warm pitas on the work surface. Spread each with 2 tablespoons tzatziki, then add half the kasseri, the hot gyros, tomato, onion, hot fries, oregano, and the remaining kasseri. Cap each one with a second pita and press lightly with your hand.
Set each skepasti in a hot sandwich press, or in a skillet with a heavy pan on top. Press for 2 to 3 minutes, turning once if using a skillet, until the pitas are marked and the kasseri has melted. This is the whole trick: hot filling, hot bread, short pressure. The cheese becomes the hinge.
Move each skepasti to a board and let it stand for 1 minute, no longer. Cut into quarters or six triangles with a sharp knife. Scatter with parsley if you like, add lemon wedges, and serve while the bread is still pliant and the cheese is soft.
1 serving (about 275g)
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