Chapter XII
Eggs
Of all the products put into requisition by the art of cookery, not one is so fruitful of variety, so universally liked, and so complete in itself as the egg. There are very few culinary recipes that do not include eggs, either as a principal constituent or as an ingredient.
The many and various egg-preparations constitute chiefly breakfast or luncheon dishes; nevertheless, at a Lenten dinner they may be served as entrées with advantage, for, at a time when fish, shell-fish and water-game are the only resources in this respect, eggs form a pleasant and welcome change.
- No. 395Eggs on the Dish
- No. 396Bercy Eggs
- No. 397Eggs with Brown Butter
- No. 398Eggs Chasseur
- No. 399Devilled Eggs
- No. 400Eggs à la Florentine
- No. 401Eggs au Gratin
- No. 402Isoline Eggs
- No. 403Jockey Club Eggs
- No. 404Lully Eggs
- No. 405Meyerbeer Eggs
- No. 406Mirabeau Eggs
- No. 407Omer-pacha Eggs
- No. 408Parmentier Eggs
- No. 409Eggs à la Portugaise
- No. 410Eggs à la Reine
Poached and Soft-boiled Eggs
All the recipes given hereafter apply equally to poached and soft-boiled eggs, wherefore I shall only mention “poached” in the titles, leaving soft-boiled to be understood.
- No. 411Procedure for Poached Eggs
- No. 412The Cooking of Soft-boiled Eggs
- No. 413The Dishing of Poached and Soft-boiled Eggs
- No. 414Poached Eggs Argenteuil
- No. 415Poached Eggs à l’Aurore
- No. 416Poached Eggs en Berceau
- No. 417Poached Eggs à la Bohémienne
- No. 418Poached Eggs Boïeldieu
- No. 419Poached Eggs à la Bruxelloise
- No. 420Poached Eggs à la Clamart
- No. 421Poached Eggs Colbert
- No. 422Poached Eggs à la Comtesse
- No. 423Poached Eggs Grand Duc
- No. 424Poached Eggs Maintenon
- No. 425Poached Eggs Masséna
- Poached Eggs Mireille
Omelets
The procedure for omelets is at once very simple and very difficult, for tastes differ considerably in respect of their preparation. Some like them well done, others insist upon their being just done, while there are yet others who only enjoy them when they are almost liquid.
Nevertheless, the following conditions apply to all—namely, that there should be homogeneity of the egg-molecules; that the whole mass should be smooth and soft; and that it should be borne in mind that an omelet is in reality scrambled eggs enclosed in a coat composed of coagulated egg.
I take as my standard an omelet consisting of three eggs, the seasoning of which comprises a small pinch of table-salt and a little pepper, and which requires one-half oz. of butter for its preparation. The quantities of garnishing ingredients given below, therefore, are based upon this standard.
- No. 492The Preparation of Omelets
- No. 493Agnès Sorel Omelet
- No. 494Omelet à la Bruxelloise
- No. 495Omelet with Cèpes
- No. 496Omelet with Mushrooms
- No. 497Omelet à la Choisy
- No. 498Omelet à la Clamart
- No. 499Omelet with Crusts
- No. 500Omelet with Spinach
- No. 501Omelet à la Fermière
- No. 502Omelet aux Fines Herbes
- No. 503Omelet with Vegetable Marrow Flowers
- No. 504Omelet with Chicken’s Liver
Cold Eggs
The preparation of cold eggs is not limited by classical rules; it rests with the skill and artistic imagination of the operator, and, since fancifulness and originality are always closely allied to artistic imagination, it follows that the varieties evolved may be infinite.
Indeed, so various and numerous are the recipes dealing with this kind of egg-preparations that I must limit myself to a selection only of the more customary ones, culled as far as possible from my own repertory.
- No. 525Cold Eggs Alexandra
- No. 526Cold Eggs à l’Andalouse
- No. 527Cold Eggs Argenteuil
- No. 528Cold Eggs Capucine
- No. 529Cold Eggs Carême
- No. 530Cold Eggs Colbert
- No. 531Cold Eggs Colinette
- No. 532Cold Eggs with Tarragon
- No. 533Cold Eggs, Frou-frou
- No. 534Cold Eggs Moscovite
- No. 535Cold Eggs à la Nantua
- No. 536Cold Eggs Polignac
- No. 537Cold Eggs à la Reine
- No. 538Cold Eggs, Rubens