1827—Feathered Game

Feathered game comprises all esculent birds that live in freedom.

The number of species involved, therefore, is considerable, but from the culinary standpoint they may be grouped into ten principal classes, which are:—

• 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras Californias.
• 2. The hazel-hen, grouse, prairie fowls, ganga, sand-grouse.
• 3. The various wild ducks and teals.
• 4. The woodcocks and snipes.
• 5. The various plovers, lapwings, sandpipers, water-rails, water-hens.
• 6. The quails, land-rails, Virginia quails.
• 7. The various thrushes, Corsican blackbirds.
• 8. The various larks.
• 9. The warblers.
• 10. The ortolans.

The birds of Classes 1 and 4 are better high—that is to say, they should be hung for a few days, before being plucked, in a moderate draught, that they may begin to decompose, and that the particular flavour of their flesh may be accentuated, a process which increases their culinary value. Whatever opinion may be held in regard to the gaminess of these birds, one thing is quite certain—namely, that the meat of a fresh pheasant and that of a high one are two totally different things. When fresh, the meat is flavourless, whereas when it is reasonably high it is tender, full of taste, and of an incomparable flavour.

Formerly, it was the custom to lard the birds of Class 1, especially when they were to be roasted. But this practice should be resolutely discarded, for, if the bird be young, it can only impair the latter’s flavour, and, if it be old, it cannot possibly restore those qualities to it which it has already lost.

Besides, an old bird should never be served; it ought only to be used in the preparation of game stock or forcemeats.

The birds belonging to the remaining classes are prepared fresh; or, if it be thought necessary to let them hang for a few days, at least they should not be allowed to get high, more particularly the aquatic ones, because gaminess is, if anything, deleterious to the flavour of their flesh.