Chapter XVI · Poultry (Volaille) · No. 1583
1583—Ailerons of Chicken
1581—SUPRÊMES
1582—CÔTELETTES
1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN
The terms “Fillet” and “Suprême” are synonymous, and either one or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or suprême comprises the large and the minion fillets.
When suprêmes are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or crescents, after having been contised with slices of truffle that are half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in the meat with the point of a knife.
Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the garnish of the suprêmes. Chicken ailerons and cutlets (the latter must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are only a kind of croquette) are suprêmes to which the humerus-bone of the wing is left adhering.
Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to suprêmes: though, sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.
In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the suprêmes well.
Suprêmes and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.
This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required colourless or sautéd; though the brown method of preparing them is applied more particularly to cutlets.
Cutlets or suprêmes sautéd: Season them with salt; roll them in flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified butter, and quickly gild them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are so tender that they are cooked and gilded at the same moment of time.
Cutlets or suprêmes prepared without colouration: Season them, and set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified butter. Roll the suprêmes in this butter; add a few drops of lemon juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.
A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprêmes, which are known to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly white.
Important Remarks: Chicken Suprêmes or cutlets should never be allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of what should be an exquisite dish.
N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for suprêmes may of course be applied to fillets, cutlets, ailerons, blanc de poulet, &c.