1300—Double or Pair of Legs of Mutton

Saddle of mutton is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.

Baron of mutton comprises the saddle and the two legs, i.e., a pair of hind-quarters.

Double consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.

The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.

The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.

In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.

When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything.

Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.

Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used.

Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference, from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:—

Andalouse, Bouquetière, Châtelaine, Clamart, Dauphine, Dubarry, Duchesse, Japonaise, Jardinière, Lorette, Macédoine, Montmorency, Moderne, Nivernaise, Orientale, Petit-Duc, Provençale, Renaissance, Richelieu, St. Germain.

Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato preparation:—

Braised Lettuce, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.

Cabbages, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice.

Haricot-beans, Peas and Broad-beans, cohered with butter.

Asparagus-heads, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.

Celery, Endives, and Chicory, all braised. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Broccoli, etc.

Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: à l’Anglaise, à la Boulangère, Braisés, Mariné en Chevreuil, which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton.