1180—Tripes à la Mode de Caen

In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many objections.

In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly, since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe, and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.

Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.

By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d’être in this case.

The Preparation of Tripe.—Under the head of “beef tripe” are understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.

First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then cut it into squares of two inches side.

For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts, take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.

Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.

The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.

In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.

Treatment and Cooking-process.—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.

On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.

Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.

Cover the whole with a kind of galette of paste, consisting of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.

Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.

In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.

The Dishing and Serving.—After taking the tripe out of the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.

When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bain-marie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.

N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.

I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special pots nor a baker’s oven.

(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.

The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but also wanes regularly.