Chapter XIV · Fish · No. 1000
1000—John Dory (St. Pierre)
This fish, which is in the highest degree unsightly, is possessed of flesh whose firmness, whiteness, and delicacy are of the rarest excellence; and, when quite fresh, its fillets are certainly equal in quality to those of the chicken-turbot and the sole.
Albeit the dory is not as popular as it deserves to be, and this is owing either to its unsightliness, which may prejudice the opinion of gourmets against it, to people’s indifference with regard to it, or to a mere trick of fashion.
While I admit its unpopularity, however, I should strongly recommend all lovers of fish to give it a trial. Let them prepare the dory’s fillets after the recipes given under Fillets of Sole and Chicken-turbot, and, provided the directions be properly carried out, I venture to believe that the prevailing aversion to dory will very soon be found to have no warrant in fact.
Escoffier, A. (1907). A Guide to Modern Cookery, No. 1000, p. 338. London: William Heinemann. Translation of Le Guide Culinaire (1903).
Curious how this dish reads in a modern kitchen? See Chef Juliette’s version →