
Chef Graziella
Asparagi al Forno con Parmigiano
Roasted asparagus finished with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the same region that grows the best spears. Four ingredients. No complications. Nothing to hide behind.
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Fried zucchini dressed with vinegar and torn mint, a Neapolitan preparation that proves frying need not be heavy when acid provides the counterpoint.
Scapece is the Neapolitan answer to the heaviness of fried food. The technique is ancient and practical: fry your vegetables, then bathe them in vinegar while still warm. The acid penetrates, the flavors marry, and what emerges hours later bears no resemblance to greasy leftovers. This is food that improves with time.
The method likely came to Naples from Spain during their long rule of the southern kingdom, a cousin to the escabeche that Spanish cooks applied to fish. Neapolitans adapted it for vegetables, particularly zucchini and eggplant, creating dishes that could survive the brutal summer heat without refrigeration.
Mint is essential. Not basil, not oregano. Fresh mint. Its sharp brightness cuts through the oil and vinegar in a way no other herb can match. The garlic is restrained, infused into the oil and then removed. You taste its ghost, not its presence. This is how garlic should be used in Italian cooking, though most Americans never learn this lesson.
Scapece arrived in Naples with the Spanish, who ruled the Kingdom of Naples from 1504 to 1714, bringing their escabeche technique for preserving fried fish in vinegar. Neapolitan cooks transformed it into a vegetable preparation, discovering that summer zucchini treated this way could last for days in the Mediterranean heat, the vinegar acting as both flavoring and preservative.
Quantity
2 pounds
Quantity
1 cup
for frying
Quantity
2
peeled and lightly crushed
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup loosely packed
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small, firm zucchini | 2 pounds |
| extra virgin olive oilfor frying | 1 cup |
| garlic clovespeeled and lightly crushed | 2 |
| red wine vinegar | 1/3 cup |
| fresh mint leaves | 1/2 cup loosely packed |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
Choose small, firm zucchini no more than six inches long. Large zucchini are watery and seedy, unfit for frying. Trim the ends and slice into rounds about one-quarter inch thick. Uniform thickness matters here. Thick slices will be soft in the center while thin ones burn.
Spread the slices on a clean kitchen towel and sprinkle lightly with salt. Let them rest for 15 to 20 minutes. The salt draws out moisture, which would otherwise cause dangerous spattering in hot oil and prevent proper browning. Blot the slices dry with paper towels before frying.
Pour the olive oil into a wide skillet to a depth of about one-quarter inch. Heat over medium-high until the oil shimmers and a small piece of zucchini sizzles immediately upon contact. Fry the slices in a single layer, without crowding, until golden brown on both sides, about two minutes per side. Work in batches. Crowding drops the oil temperature and produces soggy, greasy zucchini.
Transfer each batch to a plate lined with paper towels. Let them drain briefly, then arrange in a single layer on a shallow serving dish. Do not stack the slices until they have cooled slightly or they will steam and lose their crispness.
Pour off all but two tablespoons of frying oil from the skillet. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the crushed garlic cloves and cook gently until they turn pale gold, about one minute. The garlic must not brown or it becomes bitter. Remove and discard the garlic. Take the pan off the heat and add the vinegar. It will sizzle and steam. Stir to combine with the oil.
Layer the fried zucchini in a shallow dish. Tear the mint leaves if large, leave whole if small. Scatter half the mint over the first layer. Add remaining zucchini and top with remaining mint. Pour the warm vinegar mixture evenly over all. Season with a pinch of salt. Cover loosely and let rest at room temperature for at least two hours. Overnight is better.
Scapece is never served cold from the refrigerator. If you have chilled it, remove at least one hour before serving. The dish should be at room temperature, when the flavors are most alive. The zucchini will have softened, the vinegar mellowed, and everything will have become one harmonious thing.
1 serving (about 165g)
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