Zeppole di San Giuseppe

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 4-quart pot or Dutch oven for frying
• •Candy or deep-fry thermometer
• •Piping bag with large star tip (Ateco 846 or 1M)
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Medium saucepan for pastry cream
• •Wooden spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the pastry cream

   In a medium saucepan, heat the milk with the lemon zest over medium heat until it just begins to steam. Do not boil. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until pale and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the cornstarch until smooth. Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly to prevent curdling. Return everything to the saucepan.

   Lemon zest is the traditional Neapolitan flavoring for pastry cream. Vanilla is an acceptable substitution, but know that you are departing from the original.
2. 2

   Cook the cream

   Cook the cream over medium heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens and begins to bubble. Continue cooking for one full minute after it bubbles, still whisking. The cream should be thick enough to mound on a spoon. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter until melted. Transfer to a bowl, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate until completely cold, at least 2 hours.

3. 3

   Make the choux dough

   In a medium saucepan, combine the water, butter pieces, sugar, and salt. Heat over medium heat until the butter melts and the mixture comes to a rolling boil. Remove from heat immediately. Add all the flour at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan. Return to medium heat and cook for one minute, stirring constantly, to dry the dough slightly. You will see a thin film form on the bottom of the pan. This is correct.

4. 4

   Add the eggs

   Transfer the dough to a bowl or stand mixer. Let it cool for 5 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, incorporating each fully before adding the next. After adding all the eggs, the dough should be smooth, glossy, and thick enough to hold its shape when piped but soft enough to fall slowly from a spoon. If it seems too stiff, beat in a splash of water.

   The dough is ready when you lift the spoon and the dough falls in a thick ribbon, leaving a V-shape that slowly sinks back into itself. Too stiff and it will not puff; too loose and it will spread flat when fried.
5. 5

   Pipe the rings

   Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Fit a piping bag with a large star tip (Ateco 846 or similar). Fill the bag with the warm dough. Pipe rings about 3 inches in diameter onto the parchment, going around twice to build height. Leave 2 inches between each ring. You should have 12 rings. If the dough has cooled too much and become stiff, it will not pipe smoothly. Work while it is still warm.

6. 6

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a heavy pot to a depth of 3 inches. Heat to 340°F. Use a thermometer. The temperature is critical. Too hot and the outside will burn before the inside cooks. Too cool and the zeppole will absorb oil and become greasy. Maintain this temperature throughout frying by adjusting the heat as needed.

7. 7

   Fry the zeppole

   Carefully slide the piped rings, parchment and all, into the hot oil, working in batches of 2 or 3. The parchment will release within seconds; remove it with tongs and discard. Fry the zeppole for 3 to 4 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden brown and puffed. The ridges from the star tip should be visible. Transfer to a rack set over a baking sheet to drain. Let cool completely before filling.

   The zeppole will seem to stop puffing midway through frying. Do not remove them early. They need the full cooking time to set the structure, or they will collapse as they cool.
8. 8

   Fill and finish

   Transfer the cold pastry cream to a piping bag fitted with a large round or star tip. Pipe a generous swirl of cream into the hollow center of each cooled zeppola. Place one amarena cherry with a little of its syrup in the center of the cream. Dust with powdered sugar. Serve within a few hours. Zeppole are best the day they are made.

Chef Tips

• •Amarena cherries are not maraschino cherries. They are dark, sour Italian cherries preserved in thick syrup. The brand Fabbri is reliable and available in specialty stores and online. Accept no substitutes.
• •Lard produces the most authentic flavor and texture for frying. Neapolitan pastry makers have used it for generations. If the idea disturbs you, use vegetable oil, but know what you are giving up.
• •The piped dough can be frozen on the baking sheet, then transferred to a bag and stored for up to one month. Fry directly from frozen, adding one minute to the cooking time.
• •If you must bake rather than fry, pipe the rings onto parchment and bake at 400°F for 25 to 30 minutes until puffed and golden. They will be lighter but lack the characteristic crisp shell.

Advance Preparation

• •Pastry cream must be made ahead and chilled at least 2 hours. It can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
• •The choux dough should be piped and fried while warm. It does not hold well.
• •Filled zeppole are best eaten within 4 hours. The shell softens as it sits. If you must wait, fill them just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 100g)