Yuchae-namul (Seasoned Rapeseed Greens)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Medium pot, 3-quart or larger
• •Large bowl for cold water
• •Mixing bowl
• •Tongs or chopsticks
• •Sharp knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Trim and wash

   Trim away only the dry, fibrous stem ends. Keep the tender stems attached to the leaves, because yuchae-namul should have a little bite, not collapse into a green rag. Wash the greens in two changes of cold water, lifting them out each time so any sand stays behind.

2. 2

   Blanch briefly

   Bring 6 cups water to a full boil and add 1 tablespoon coarse salt. Add the greens stem ends first, then press the leaves under. Blanch 45 to 60 seconds for young greens, up to 90 seconds if the stems are thicker. The salt seasons lightly and keeps the green color clear. Overcook them and the faint sweetness disappears.

3. 3

   Cool and squeeze

   Lift the greens into cold water and swish once to stop the cooking. Drain, gather them in both hands, and squeeze firmly but not cruelly. You want about 180g cooked greens after squeezing. Too much water thins the seasoning; too much force bruises the leaves.

   If the bundle still drips when you press it, squeeze again. Namul seasoning clings to a dry surface, not to water.
4. 4

   Cut the bundle

   Lay the squeezed greens on the board and cut them into 2-inch lengths. This is not decoration. Short lengths let each bite carry stem, leaf, and seasoning together, and they sit properly beside rice.

5. 5

   Make the seasoning

   In a mixing bowl, mash together the doenjang, soup soy sauce, sesame oil, maesil-cheong, garlic, scallion, sesame seeds, and gochugaru if using. Mash until the doenjang loosens and no salty lump remains. Taste the paste before the greens go in. It should be savory and a little sweet, not sharp with raw garlic.

6. 6

   Season by hand

   Add the cut greens to the bowl and loosen them with your fingers before rubbing in the seasoning. Work gently, separating the stems and leaves so the doenjang reaches everything. Taste one stem and one leaf. If it tastes flat, add 1/4 teaspoon more soup soy sauce. If your doenjang is very salty, stop there. 손맛 is real; I measure it anyway.

   Season this namul alone, in its own bowl, before it ever meets rice or other banchan. Greens do not all want the same hand.
7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Let the namul sit 5 minutes so the doenjang settles into the stems, then toss once more and mound it in a small dish. Serve at room temperature with rice, soup, and one or two other banchan. It should taste green first, then soybean paste, garlic, and sesame behind it.

Chef Tips

• •Buy yuchae before the stems grow woody. If the market bundle has open flowers and thick stems, it is better for looking at than eating. Choose slim stems, fresh leaves, and small buds if they are present.
• •A mild, home-style doenjang is best here. If your paste is dark, aged, and very salty, start with 2 teaspoons instead of 1 tablespoon, then adjust after tasting.
• •No yuchae at your market? In the same season, tender napa cabbage greens, young mustard greens, or spinach can take a similar seasoning, but blanching times change. Spinach needs only 20 to 30 seconds. Mustard greens need closer to 90 seconds.

Advance Preparation

• •The greens can be washed and trimmed up to 1 day ahead, wrapped in a barely damp towel, and refrigerated in a loose bag.
• •Yuchae-namul is best within 24 hours after seasoning. Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container and bring them back toward room temperature before serving, because cold sesame oil tastes dull.
• •Do not freeze this dish. The stems lose their clean bite and the leaves turn watery.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 65g)