Xerotigana Kritis (Ξεροτήγανα Κρήτης)

Xerotigana Kritis are Crete's wedding pastry, thin ribbons of eggless dough coiled in hot oil until pale gold and crisp, then dipped in honey syrup and dressed with sesame, walnuts, and cinnamon. They are not doughnuts, not biscuits, and not the mainland's diples. The region is the dish's surname.

The whole pastry depends on thinness. Roll the dough until you can almost see the work surface through it, then cut long ribbons and coil them as they fry. Too thick, and the center turns bready before the outside crisps. Thin enough, and each spiral drinks the honey while keeping its dry crackle under your teeth.

I like them made with tsikoudia, the Cretan grape spirit, because it keeps the dough lean and fragrant without making it sweet. The sweetness belongs to the honey afterward. Make them patiently, one or two at a time, and don't crowd the pot. This is celebration food, but a home cook can do it with a rolling pin, a fork, and a little nerve.