
Chef Ally
Artichokes Braised in Olive Oil
Tender baby artichokes surrendered to good olive oil, garlic, and lemon, cooked low and slow until the leaves soften and the hearts turn silky. A dish that asks you to slow down.
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Earthy beets roasted until their sugars concentrate and caramelize, reunited on the plate with their own greens, wilted simply with garlic and finished with good olive oil and a bright squeeze of lemon.
Buy beets with their greens still attached. This is how you know they are fresh. The leaves should look alive, not wilted or yellowed or sad. When you find beets like this at the market, you are buying two vegetables in one: the sweet, earthy root and the mineral-rich greens that taste like a cross between chard and spinach.
Roasting transforms beets. The dry heat concentrates their natural sugars until they caramelize at the edges, and the flesh turns tender and almost creamy. If you have access to a wood-fired oven or can nestle them into the coals of a dying fire, all the better. That smoky char adds something a conventional oven cannot replicate.
The greens need almost nothing. A quick sauté with garlic and good olive oil. A splash of vinegar to brighten. The contrast on the plate tells the whole story: root and leaf, slow and fast, sweet and mineral. This is what it means to cook with the whole plant, to waste nothing, to honor what the farmer grew.
Quantity
3 pounds
with fresh greens attached
Quantity
4 tablespoons, divided, plus more for finishing
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
Quantity
4 cloves
thinly sliced
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small to medium beetswith fresh greens attached | 3 pounds |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 4 tablespoons, divided, plus more for finishing |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
| garlicthinly sliced | 4 cloves |
| red pepper flakes | pinch |
| red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| lemonfor finishing | 1 |
Cut the greens from the beets, leaving about an inch of stem attached to each root. This protects the beet from bleeding during roasting. Wash the greens in several changes of cold water. Soil hides in the ruffled leaves, and grit will ruin the dish. Shake off excess water but do not spin completely dry. The clinging moisture will help them wilt in the pan later.
Scrub the beets gently under running water. Do not peel them. The skin protects the flesh during cooking and slips off easily afterward. Dry them well. Rub each beet with a thin coating of olive oil, about two tablespoons total, and season generously with salt and pepper.
Wrap each beet individually in foil, or nestle them together in a covered baking dish. Place in a 400F oven and roast until a paring knife slides through the center without resistance, 45 minutes to one hour depending on size. Small beets the size of golf balls will finish sooner. Large ones take longer. Check them. There is no substitute for paying attention.
When the beets are tender, open the foil carefully. Steam will escape. Let them cool just until you can handle them. The skins will slip off under gentle pressure from a paper towel or your fingers. Slice into wedges or thick rounds, whatever shape pleases you. Arrange on a serving platter and keep warm.
Heat the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and cook until fragrant and barely golden, about one minute. Watch it. Garlic goes from perfect to bitter in seconds. Add the red pepper flakes, then pile in the greens. They will seem like too much. They are not. Toss with tongs until they wilt and turn glossy, two to three minutes.
Season the greens with salt and the vinegar. The acid brightens everything. Toss once more and taste. Arrange the greens alongside or on top of the beets. Finish the whole platter with a generous drizzle of your best olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and a final pinch of flaky salt. Serve warm or at room temperature.
1 serving (about 200g)
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