
Chef Thomas
A Ploughman's Salad
The old pub ploughman's, shaken loose from its board and laid across butter lettuce with a sharp mustard dressing, for the kind of lunch that feels like you've given yourself the afternoon off.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A raw winter slaw of grated parsnip, celeriac, and beetroot in a mustardy dressing, built for the months when the garden is bare and the root vegetables are the best thing going.
January. The garden is bare except for the parsnips, which have been in the ground since autumn and are sweeter for the frost. The celeriac is still good, solid and dense, and there are beetroot in the box from the market, their skins still dusty with earth. This is what winter gives you if you pay attention.
A slaw doesn't have to mean cabbage. When the summer heads are long gone and the coleslaws of August feel like another life, the root vegetables step in and do something arguably better. Raw parsnip has a sweetness and a pepperiness that catches you off guard if you've only ever had it roasted. Celeriac, grated coarsely, brings a quiet celery warmth. And beetroot, that most generous of roots, turns the whole bowl into something you'd actually want to look at on a grey afternoon.
The dressing is mustardy and sharp, mayonnaise loosened with cider vinegar and lemon so it coats rather than smothers. You want to taste the vegetables, not mask them. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract, so adjust the balance to your own mouth. More mustard, less lemon, a bit more oil if you like things gentler. Your kitchen, your rules.
I make this through the cold months and take it to other people's tables when asked to bring something. It sits happily for hours, travels without complaint, and looks after itself while you get on with everything else. I wrote it down in the notebook last February: parsnip, beetroot, mustard, rain on the window. That was enough to remember it by.
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and coarsely grated
Quantity
1 small (about 400g)
peeled and coarsely grated
Quantity
2 medium
peeled and coarsely grated
Quantity
1
coarsely grated
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
half
juiced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
small handful
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| parsnipspeeled and coarsely grated | 2 medium |
| celeriacpeeled and coarsely grated | 1 small (about 400g) |
| raw beetrootpeeled and coarsely grated | 2 medium |
| sharp eating applecoarsely grated | 1 |
| good mayonnaise | 3 tablespoons |
| wholegrain mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| lemonjuiced | half |
| cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | small handful |
| toasted sunflower seeds (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
Peel and coarsely grate the parsnips and celeriac into a large bowl. Use the big holes on a box grater or the coarse disc of a food processor, whichever your patience allows. The pieces should be long, rough shreds, not fine mush. You want something with backbone, something that holds its shape in a dressing without going limp. Grate the beetroot separately into a small bowl. It will stain everything it touches, and if you mix it in now the whole slaw turns a uniform pink. That's not what you're after.
Coarsely grate the apple, skin and all, stopping when you reach the core. Add it straight to the bowl with the parsnip and celeriac. The apple does quiet, important work here: a little sweetness, a little sharpness, and enough moisture to help the dressing cling. A Braeburn or Cox works well. Anything crisp and a bit tart.
In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, wholegrain mustard, lemon juice, cider vinegar, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. It should be sharp and punchy, more so than you think is right, because the roots will absorb the acidity and soften it. If it tastes perfectly balanced now, it will taste flat in an hour. More mustard if you like heat. More lemon if it needs waking up. Trust your tongue.
Pour the dressing over the parsnip, celeriac, and apple. Toss it through with your hands or two forks until everything is well coated. Now fold in the beetroot, gently, in broad strokes. You want streaks of deep crimson running through the pale shreds, not a uniform colour. It should look like a winter garden: earthy, vivid, a bit untidy. Scatter the parsley over the top and the sunflower seeds if you're using them.
Give it twenty minutes at room temperature before you serve it, or make it a few hours ahead and keep it in the fridge. A slaw like this improves with sitting. The roots soften just slightly, the dressing works its way in, and the flavours stop being separate things and start becoming a single, coherent bowl. Taste it again before it goes to the table. Season and taste. Then taste again. It almost always needs a final pinch of salt.
1 serving (about 210g)
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